Oregon Archives - Mount Hood History

Mount Hood Auto Stages: From Rugged Roads to Modern Highways

The Rise and Fall of Primitive Travel on the Old Barlow Road

The Early Days of the Mount Hood Auto Stages

In the early 20th century, long before travelers zipped up Highway 26 to the ski lifts and resorts of Mount Hood, the trip to the mountain was rugged and uncertain. The road, built on the bones of the old Barlow Trail, was steep, narrow, and either muddy or dusty depending on the season. For those without their own means of transportation—and even for those who did—reliable travel meant trusting the early Mount Hood auto stages and their legendary drivers who knew every twist, rut, and washout of the mountain road.

Olinger Stages to Mount Hood. — Olinger Stages to Mount Hood

The Route to the Mountain

Before the 1880s, travelers followed the original Barlow Trail, carved out by immigrant wagon trains in the 1840s to the 1860’s. This immigrant trail came from Central Oregon and passed over Mount Hood’s southern shoulder. The route took travelers through the area that we know today on the south side of Mount Hood. Coming down from the mountain the route followed the north side of the Zigzag River and then crossed the Sandy River to the north side and through what we now know as Marmot. This remained the primary route until settlement increased east of Sandy.

In the 1880s, a new south side road connected Sandy to Government Camp by following the south bank of the Sandy River. This alternative offered gentler grades, primitive but useful bridges creating more reliable access. Consequently, it soon became the main road to and from the mountain. Meanwhile, the Marmot Road continued as a scenic alternate, especially for travelers heading to Aschoff’s Mountain Home.

The primary route—used by both stagecoaches and auto stages—passed through Sandy, Cherryville, Brightwood, Welches, Zigzag, Rhododendron, and Government Camp. Notable stops included the Cherryville Hotel, Welch’s Hotel, Tawney’s and the Rhododendron Inn, and others.

Mount Hood Auto Stages - Rhododendron Inn — The Rhododendron Inn

The Stage Lines and Their Drivers

Initially, travelers relied on horse-drawn stages operated by local residents. Joe Meinig and Walter Ziegler were among the best-known drivers in those early days. However, as the road improved and mountain tourism grew, motorized stages entered the picture.

By the 1910s, auto stages had largely replaced horse-drawn wagons. Bob Elliott, a Sandy garage owner, led the way with one of the first regular lines to Government Camp. His rugged fleet of Pierce-Arrows, Cadillacs, and White touring cars came equipped with chains, spare tires, and tools for inevitable roadside repairs.

One of the most prominent operations was Reliance Mount Hood Stages. They offered daily trips from Portland’s eastside waterfront and coordinated with nearly every lodging stop along the route. Their Touring Cars became a familiar sight climbing the dusty grades to Rhododendron and beyond.

Among the legendary drivers was Dr. Ivan M. Wooley. His memoir, Off to Mt. Hood – An Auto Biography Of The Old Road, preserves vivid recollections of the people, places, and perils of early auto stage travel. His storytelling has given us one of the richest surviving records of this vanished era.

Ivan Woolley Stuck on the Road to Mount Hood

Hard Roads and Gritty Travel

Despite the switch from horses to horsepower, travel remained difficult. The roads were merely widened wagon paths. On steep hills like Laurel Hill and McIntyre Hill, passengers often had to walk. The latter, near Brightwood, posed such a challenge that hotelier John McIntyre charged motorists a fee to haul their cars up the grade with his horses. Eventually, widening the road, regrading the hills and decreasing the grades helped. Still, early autos struggled.

Drivers had to wear many hats: mechanic, navigator, and even peacemaker. They fixed broken axles, crossed flooded creeks, and comforted uneasy passengers. Some vehicles towed freight. Others had canvas tops for sun and rain. The trip could last all day, but for many, that was part of the fun.

Mount Hood Auto Stages — Broke down in Government Camp

Mountain Tourism and the Resorts That Made It Possible

The auto stages helped turn Mount Hood into a major Oregon destination. Easier access drew tourists eager to escape city heat or enjoy snowy slopes. Resorts like Welch’s Ranch, Arrah Wanna Lodge, Tawney’s Mountain Home, and the Rhododendron Inn thrived. They offered lodging, camping, hearty meals, hunting, fishing, hiking, dances and community bonfires. Most worked directly with stage lines, ensuring guests could be dropped off at their doorsteps. Back then, the journey, the lodging, and the scenery created a complete experience.

The Automobile Takes Over

By the mid-1920s, personal automobiles had changed everything. Tourists no longer needed to reserve stage seats. They could drive, stop where they pleased, and enjoy more freedom. Ironically, the new Mount Hood Loop Highway—built to improve access—also ended the era of the auto stage. Independence had arrived.

The End of the Line for The Mount Hood Auto Stages

In 1923, the Mount Hood Loop Highway was completed, dramatically altering travel to the mountain. With the addition of a road to Hood River on the east side, the full loop was in place.

As roads improved and cars became more dependable, scheduled auto stages became obsolete. Tourists drove themselves, and although the mountain resorts endured, the days of colorful drivers and mechanical struggles quietly faded away.

Love Mount Hood History?

Discover more local stories, rare photos, and forgotten places:

Historic Photos
Mount Hood Pioneers
Welches & Rhododendron
Barlow Road Stories
Lost Resorts & Landmarks

Follow the trails. Meet the people. Uncover the past.

Susette Franzetti Rhododendron Oregon – Pioneer Innkeeper

Susette Franzetti Rhododendron Oregon – Pioneer of Hospitality

From the Swiss Alps to Oregon’s Mount Hood

Before Rhododendron, Oregon, became a known mountain getaway, Susette Franzetti helped build its identity. A Swiss hotelier with European training, she transformed the area with hospitality, real estate, and resilience. Ultimately, the story of Susette Franzetti Rhododendron Oregon is one of independence and quiet determination.

A Lifelong Passion for Hospitality

Susette Franzetti was born in 1879 near Lake Constance, Switzerland. After graduating high school, she studied French in Geneva and began training in hotels across Lugano, London, the Italian Riviera, and Corsica. She spoke seven languages and worked in the front office, purchasing, and guest services.

“You can’t be a successful resort keeper unless you really have in your heart the spirit of hospitality,” she once said.

Starting a New Life in America

In 1905, Susette immigrated to the United States. She married Emil Franzetti, a renowned European chef, and together they lived in New York, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C. By 1909, they had settled in Portland, Oregon, where Emil became the head chef at The Quelle.

They were a powerhouse pair—Emil in the kitchen, Susette handling the business side.

Managing the Rhododendron Inn Alone

In 1911, the Franzettis purchased the Rhododendron Inn, originally developed by Portland’s former mayor, Henry S. Rowe. The 160-acre property quickly became a favorite stop for travelers and skiers.

Tragedy struck in 1916 when Emil died in an automobile accident. Even so, Susette carried on. She ran the inn alone for seven years, continuing to serve guests and manage operations.

The Woman Who Helped Build Rhododendron

In 1923, Susette sold the Rhododendron Inn, but she didn’t slow down. She subdivided her land, built and sold 36 cottages, and helped shape what would become the town of Rhododendron. As a result, her sharp business sense and reputation for fairness left a lasting mark on the area.

In 1933, she said:

“I had 150 acres here, which I subdivided and sold in tracts and lots. I have built and sold 36 cottages here. Two-thirds of my property is already sold.”

Suitcases and Zeppelins: A Life of Travel

Despite living in the forest, Susette never stopped exploring. In 1925, she traveled to Europe via the Panama Canal. Four years later, she began a 16-month world tour, which included a Graf Zeppelin flight over England. Then in 1937, she boarded a ship in Portland bound for Naples to reunite with her brother from Switzerland.

Her love for travel and learning never faded.

Final Years and an Unseen Legacy

Susette spent her final years at Willamette Manor Convalescent Center, where she lived from 1957 until her death in 1972 at the age of 93. Her ashes were returned to her hometown of Romanshorn, Switzerland.

Although she left no surviving family, her influence still echoes through the cabins and lots she developed. To this day, her story is inseparable from the history of Rhododendron, Oregon.

Susette Franzetti’s Enduring Spirit

Few people did more to shape the look and spirit of early Rhododendron than Susette Franzetti. With her world-class hospitality background and independent spirit, she built a life rooted in generosity, vision, and perseverance.

The next time you walk the trails or pass through Rhododendron, picture a woman who once ran the inn, subdivided the land, and brought global perspective to a quiet corner of Oregon’s mountains.

Emil Franzetti Rhododendron Inn – Mount Hood’s Gourmet Chef

The Culinary Legacy of Emil Franzetti

The Chef Who Brought Fine Dining to the Forest

Before ski resorts dotted the highway and travelers packed the trailheads, Emil Franzetti of the Rhododendron Inn brought elegance and fine cuisine to Oregon’s Mount Hood region. He helped transform the rugged wilderness into a mountain destination known for hospitality and good food.

At a time when most mountain lodging focused on bare essentials, Emil introduced elegance and culinary sophistication to a rugged frontier. He made people feel like honored guests, even in the Oregon woods.

From the Italian Lakes to Royal Kitchens

Emil was born near the Italian lakes and trained in Switzerland. He built a world-class culinary career, cooking in Corsica, London, and along the Italian Riviera. His expertise earned him the prestigious role of chef to the King of Italy, a rare honor that spoke volumes about his talent.

Portland, Crawfish, and a New Path to the Mountain

In 1905, Emil moved to the United States and married Susette, a hospitality professional he had met in Geneva. Together, they lived in New York, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C., where Emil worked at high-profile hotels, including the New Willard.

They eventually moved to Portland, Oregon. There, Emil became head chef at The Quelle, a restaurant celebrated for its crawfish cooked in wine. The Quelle was more than a restaurant—it was a culinary landmark. Emil’s role as head chef helped shape Portland’s fine dining scene. He spent four years there before he left for the little mountain community of Rhododendron.

Emil Franzetti Rhododendron Inn — Rhododendron Inn Annex

Rhododendron Inn Becomes a Culinary Destination

In 1911, Emil and Susette bought the Rhododendron Tavern, a lodge built by former Portland mayor Henry S. Rowe. Located on 160 wooded acres, the inn sat near the Zigzag River and welcomed travelers heading to Mount Hood.

Emil expanded the property and improved the guest experience. He added a dance hall, a swimming pool, bridle paths, and cozy guest cottages. He even caught trout himself from nearby streams and served them to guests. Emil created a space where rustic charm and refined hospitality came together.

The Tragic Loss of Emil Franzetti

In November 1916, Emil drove near the Zigzag Ranger Station when his car slid into soft sand and flipped over. A passing farmer found him hours later, unconscious and pinned beneath the vehicle.

Rescuers brought him to St. Vincent’s Hospital, but Emil never regained consciousness. He died shortly after, at just 35 years old.

Friends and fellow outdoorsmen gathered at St. Mary’s Cathedral for his funeral. Members of the Mazamas Winter Skiing Club, many of whom Emil had personally hosted, paid their respects.

How Emil Franzetti Changed Rhododendron Forever

Although Emil lived a short life, his impact endures. After his death, Susette continued operating the Rhododendron Inn for seven more years. Her work honored Emil’s vision and helped develop the area into the mountain community it is today.

Together, Emil and Susette helped turn Rhododendron into a meaningful stop along the Mount Hood Highway. Emil’s commitment to quality, service, and hospitality laid a foundation that others built upon.

Emil’s Spirit in the Heart of the Mountain

The Rhododendron Inn burned down in 1949, but Emil’s legacy lives on through the stories of early Oregon hospitality. His time at the inn remains a powerful example of how one individual can elevate a place through heart, skill, and a deep respect for the guests he served.

So the next time you travel the Mount Hood Highway, picture Emil Franzetti, fresh trout in hand, preparing a meal with the same care he once gave to kings.

Emil Franzetti’s story is inseparable from the legacy of the Rhododendron Inn. To this day, visitors and locals remember Emil Franzetti Rhododendron Inn as a turning point in Mount Hood’s tourism history.

Read about Susette Franzetti HERE
Read about Emil and Susette at the Rhododendron Inn HERE

Burnt Lake Fire 1904: How the Lake Got Its Name

The Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 Still Leaves a Mark

If you’ve ever taken the trail up to Burnt Lake on the west side of Mount Hood, you’ve probably noticed the open ridges and the snags along the way—scarred trees that stand like ghosts among the newer growth. The Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 swept through this area, leaving damage so severe that the lake was named for it. Though the forest has mostly grown back, signs of that fire still linger, more than 120 years later.

Where Is Burnt Lake?

Burnt Lake sits in the Mount Hood National Forest, just east of Rhododendron. The trail climbs through a mix of Douglas fir, hemlock, and alder before reaching a quiet alpine basin with a view of Mount Hood reflected in the water. It’s a peaceful place now. However, in 1904, fire transformed the scene in a matter of days.

Burnt Lake Fire 1904 – Photo Cheryl Hill – www.cherylhill.net

How the Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 Started

On August 25, 1904, according to newspaper accounts, a man named Henry Harmand was burning brush near the Zigzag River. The fire quickly spread beyond his control. Based on land records and name variations common at the time, it’s likely that Henry Harmand was actually Heinrich “Henry” Haman, a homesteader who had settled in the area that would later become the townsite of Rhododendron.

That summer brought hot, dry conditions, and strong east winds fanned the flames. Once the fire reached thick timber, it moved fast. It tore across the slopes above Rhododendron, swept through the Burnt Lake Basin, and pushed toward Mount Hood and the trails to Lost Lake and Bull Run, Lolo Pass today.

Smoke and Flame Across Mount Hood’s West Side

Eyewitnesses saw a “wall of flame” rising up the ridges. Meanwhile, thick smoke drifted down into Government Camp and Sandy, where locals said they could hardly see. There were no fire crews in those days—only settlers, a few hikers, and travelers on horseback. Because of this, there was no way to stop it. The fire burned for days.

By August 28, 1904, the Oregon Daily Journal and Sunday Oregonian reported that the blaze still raged across the western slope of Mount Hood. The fire had destroyed stands of old-growth forest. Trails vanished under ash and smoke. Charred trees marked the fire’s path from Zigzag Creek to Zigzag Ridge and then toward Burnt Lake.

How Burnt Lake Got Its Name

After the fire, people began referring to the lake as Burnt Lake, a name that stuck. The name became part of local memory—and part of the map. Even today, hikers still pass the reminders. Dead snags are still found along the trail. The ridgeline above the lake opens to the sky where the canopy hasn’t fully returned. If you pay attention, you can still see the shape of the fire in the land. The Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 changed more than the trees—it gave a name to the place itself.

The Legacy of the Burnt Lake Fire 1904

The Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 was one of the first major wildfires recorded on Mount Hood’s west side. It reshaped the forest, scarred the ridges, and gave a name to one of the area’s most scenic lakes. Today, Burnt Lake still reflects Mount Hood—but also a story that burned its way into the history of this mountain.

Baby Morgan’s Grave: A Tragic Pioneer Story at Summit Meadow

Baby Morgan’s grave – A Lost Child on the Oregon Trail

Tucked in the peaceful meadow near Government Camp, Oregon, lies a quiet grave that tells a heartbreaking story. Baby Morgan’s grave is marked by a small bronze plaque mounted on a random boulder named Chimney Rock by immigrants on the Barlow Trail in Summit Meadow. It honors the memory of an infant girl who died during her family’s perilous journey on the Oregon Trail in 1847.

The Morgan Family’s Journey West

Daniel Morgan and Rachel Woodside were among the brave pioneers who crossed the plains in search of a new life in Oregon. Married in 1841 in Cuba, Illinois, the couple traveled west in 1847 with their children: Seth, Thomas, and Anne. They joined what became known as the “Woodsides Train,” a caravan of families heading for the Oregon Territory.

By June, the party reached Independence Rock in Wyoming. There, tragedy struck. Several members fell ill after eating food contaminated by brass cooking vessels. Rachel, just 25 years old and pregnant, died shortly after giving birth to a baby girl.

The Road to Oregon—and More Loss

Relatives stepped in to care for the motherless children, including the newborn. The wagon train pushed on, crossing Idaho and eventually descending into Oregon along the Barlow Trail.

As they neared Mt. Hood in late October, the baby grew weak. According to family history, the infant was injured during a wagon jolt. Jacob Caplinger, a family member, carried her on horseback, hoping to ease her pain. Sadly, she died not long after, on October 24, 1847.

A Burial Beside Chimney Rock

The family buried the baby at Summit Meadow, near a rock described as looking like a “house and chimney.” That landmark later helped descendants locate the gravesite a century later.

In 1957, family members from the Morgan, Caplinger, and Woodside lines placed a plaque on the rock to honor her memory. Since then, they’ve gathered annually at Summit Meadow to remember her and the sacrifices of all Oregon Trail pioneers.

Legacy of a Littlest Pioneer

Today, Baby Morgan’s grave is a quiet but powerful reminder of the hardships faced by early pioneers. It sits just off the historic Barlow Road, drawing visitors who stop to reflect on the fragility of life during westward expansion.

If you’re traveling near Government Camp, take a moment to visit Summit Meadow. It’s a beautiful spot with a deep history—one that speaks softly through the stones and stories left behind.

Sources & Further Reading:

Transcript: Rachel (Morgan) Gifford
Mount Hood History: Baby Morgan and Summit Meadow
Oregon-California Trails Association: Barlow Road Guidebook

Billy Welch Welches Oregon

Billy Welch: The Heart and Soul of Welches, Oregon

A Young Pioneer – Billy Welch Welches Oregon

Billy Welch Welches Oregon – In the shadow of Mount Hood, where the Salmon River winds through a valley rich in history, the legacy of William “Billy” Welch remains deeply embedded in the land he called home. Billy Welch was more than just a homesteader — he was a community builder, a businessman, and a generous soul whose efforts helped shape the town that bears his family name.

Billy Welch was born on December 24, 1866. At the age of 16, he moved with his father, Samuel “Uncle Sam” Welch, to the Salmon River Valley. In 1882, they each claimed 160 acres of land and built a homestead. Over time, their property expanded to 1,000 acres.

Life on the Welch Ranch

The Welch ranch was a self-sufficient farm with pastures, barns, livestock, orchards, and a vegetable garden. Moreover, the nearby hills provided ample game. In addition, the Salmon River, which runs through the land, was teeming with fish. Billy continued to run the property as a ranch. Billy married Mamie Kopper in 1902 but Mamie died in 1903. Their daughter Lutie “Welch” Bailey was a resident of the area until her death.

Building a Community

Billy cared deeply about the growing settlement. In 1886, with neighbor Firmer Walkley, he claimed a one-acre plot at the junction of the Barlow Road and the road to Welches. They used this land to build the first Welches School. As a result, this early investment in education showed Billy’s dedication to the families establishing roots in the valley.

After Samuel’s death in 1889, Billy inherited the land and continued to develop the property. Not long after, tourists seeking respite from the city began arriving. Therefore, Billy responded by adapting the ranch to welcome them.

Welches Becomes a Destination

By 1905, the property was leased to Clinton “Linny” Kern and a Mr. Wrenn as a hotel resort. To keep up with demand of the tourists that were coming, Billy expanded the facilities. He added a dining hall, a dance hall, a store and a post office near the Welches Hotel. As demand increased, he also added tent cabins throughout the area. Billy took the hotel and property back from Kern and Wrenn in 1909.

In addition to running the resort, Billy remained focused on the growing community. In fact, he often supported neighbors and welcomed guests, making the Welch homestead a hub of local life. Furthermore, his hospitality created lasting memories for the many visitors who lived there or those who passed through.

A Life Full of Laughter and Music

People remember Billy as a jolly soul — good-natured, generous, and full of humor. He played the fiddle and hosted Saturday night dances that would sometimes last through the night, which were popular with both locals and visitors. These lively events took place in the dance hall above his store. There are stories told how the whole building seemed to rock while everyone danced to Billy and his fiddle and the occasional volunteer on the piano. The hall had an east-facing balcony. From there, guests cooled off and enjoyed moonlit views of Hunchback Mountain.

Billy also loved the outdoors. He was an avid hunter who relied on his hounds to flush out deer. Notably, his favorite dog, Leader, was a loyal companion on many trips. It’s common to see his dog next to him in photos. Whether he was playing music, greeting visitors, or roaming the forest with his dogs, Billy lived life with energy and joy.

A Strong Partnership

In April 1911, Billy married Jennie Faubion. She was the daughter of local homesteaders William and Anna Faubion. Together, Billy and Jennie managed the resort, store, post office, and dance hall. Jennie played a vital role in the operation and success of their ventures.

As Welches attracted more visitors, Billy began selling small plots of land to regular campers. Consequently, these families built summer cabins and returned year after year. This trend marked the beginning of Welches as a seasonal destination for recreation and relaxation that still exists today.

Over time, the town grew. Thanks to the couple’s efforts, Welches developed a strong reputation as a friendly, welcoming place. It became a destination loved by visitors and settlers alike. In many ways, their teamwork laid the foundation for the community spirit that still exists today.

Miss Jennie Faubion before she married Billy

Leaving a Legacy

In 1928, Billy leased part of his land to Ralph Waale, who constructed a nine-hole golf course and operated it until 1939. Eventually, after Waale stepped away, Billy and Jennie resumed control and managed the golf course until 1942.

Billy also served as the first postmaster of Welches, from 1905 until 1940. Through his service, he helped the growing community stay connected with the wider world. His work laid the foundation for the town’s lasting success. Additionally, after Billy passed, Jennie continued in this role until 1960. Her contributions further strengthened the continuity and spirit of the town.

Lutie Welch Baily, Billy Welch and Jennie Welch

A Lasting Memory

Billy Welch passed away on October 30, 1942. The land he helped develop eventually became a resort featuring a world-class golf course with sweeping views in all directions. Today, it remains a popular destination that continues to welcome visitors. Now known as The Mt. Hood Resort, it still sits in the same scenic valley that Billy and his father once called home.

Even though the cedar shake cabins and dance halls have almost faded, Billy’s name and spirit live on in Welches. He was more than a pioneer — he was the heart and soul of a community that still thrives in the shadow of Mount Hood.

Ultimately, Billy Welch’s legacy is one of vision, opportunity, connection, and joy. It serves as a reminder that one person’s dedication can shape an entire region for generations to come.

Mount Hood Forest Fires of 1910

Eyewitness Report from The 1910 Oregon Daily Journal

1910 was a tragic year for forest fires

Mt Hood Forest Fires of 1910 – The summer of 1910 brought devastating forest fires to the Mount Hood area, with flames sweeping across Zigzag Mountain, Huckleberry Mountain, Wildcat Mountain, and the surrounding ridges. This firsthand account from the Portland Oregon Daily Journal, published on August 28, 1910, gives us a rare look into the chaos and hardship faced by locals, vacationers, and especially the Indigenous berry pickers during that tragic event.

“The Indians and berry pickers suffered terribly. Hundreds of Indians who were camping and picking berries in the woods were robbed of their all by the fire, their blankets burned, their stock killed and their tents and camp equipment destroyed. So it was with many white campers. No one will ever know just how many burned to death, for there may have been hundreds of berry pickers in the dense woods through which the fire ate.

As someone who has explored and photographed this very landscape, it’s sobering to read how much of a conflagration this fire was and how many people lost their lives. While some of the places mentioned — like the Maulding Hotel and Rhododendron Inn — are now long gone or forgotten, this report captures a moment in time when fire was an ever-present threat in the Oregon woods. A fact that we, in this modern time, seem to ignore until it’s an immediate threat to us.

Read the following about the tragic Mt Hood Forest Fires of 1910

Original Article: The Portland Oregon Daily Journal, August 28, 1910

LOCAL PARTY NEAR MOUNT HOOD NOT MENACED BY FIRE

Members Returning From the Maulding Hotel Say Flames Along Mountain Road Under Control; 4 Houses Burned

Thomas McCusker and his son-in-law, E.M. Fauch, who returned yesterday by auto from the Maulding hotel, near Welch’s camp, on the Mount Hood road, with Mrs. Custer, Miss Helen McCusker and Mrs. E.F. Cannon, reported the forest fires that raged along the highway last week, greatly abated. They arrived in Portland about 3 o’clock yesterday afternoon.

“The fire started,” said Mr. McCusker, on Zig-zag mountain, according to reports and is supposed to have been caused by the carelessness of forest rangers. It swept down the Sandy road and river to what is now known as the McIntyre place. So far as I was able to learn only four houses were burned. On Wildcat mountain a squaw and pappoose were burned to death, according to the reports made by hundreds of Indians who were driven out of the brush.

“Mr. Fouch and I went to the Maulding hotel Friday to get my wife and daughter and Mrs. Cannon. We found that the hotel was in no danger, but that every precaution had been taken. Maulding’s place is about three miles south of Rhododendron inn around which the fire swept.

Mountains Swept Clean

“When we left the Mount Hood district the fires were still burning, but were under control. It was feared they were beating back into the mountains. The wind storm that rose up Tuesday about midnight and gave impetus to the flames, has subsided and unless the wind, which was light and blowing to the northeast, changes, I believe the fires will be extinguished without trouble.

“The west side of Huckleberry mountain has been swept clean of all growth, and Zig-zag and Wildcat mountains have been denuded. Fences were burned out all along the road and hay and other crops gone. On the ground over which the fire swept there is no vegetable life left, but in many places smothered by flames, the standing timber is not so badly hurt as supposed. In many cases the fire was swept through so swiftly by the strong wind, that it burned only the underbrush and did not really damage the larger trees.

“Bull Run is in no danger and from what I learned has not been endangered at any time. Of course, if the wind changes suddenly and freshens up considerably, the flames may be carried into the reserve, but such is not likely.

Settlers Leave in Hurry

“Everywhere we saw evidence of the haste in which people left the burned region. Along the sides of the roads we saw camps, deserted days ago, with the dishes still on tables, and clothing hanging on the lines. We met one camper yesterday hauling a half of a dining room table. He told us that the other half had burned.

“The Indians and berry pickers suffered terribly. Hundreds of Indians who were camping and picking berries in the woods were robbed of their all by the fire, their blankets burned, their stock killed and their tents and camp equipment destroyed. So it was with many white campers. No one will ever know just how many burned to death, for there may have been hundreds of berry pickers in the dense woods through which the fire ate.

“People who are still at Maulding’s place, Welch’s and at Rhododendron asked me to let the newspapers know that the danger was past, so that their friends and relatives may know they are safe. The stages are having trouble getting in and out and it will be several days before all those who desire to leave can get out.

“At Maulding’s hotel there are a Mr. McKnight of Portland, and his three sisters; Mrs. Rasmussen and two daughters; T.G. Green, and two children, Dr. Stolte’s wife and son of Douglas Taylor, formerly city engineer of Portland, are at the hotel. Mr. Taylor is out in the woods on a surveying trip. He did not encounter the flames.”

Reflections on the Mt Hood Forest Fires of 1910

This is one of the most detailed accounts I’ve found about the 1910 fires near our local communities from Brightwood to Rhododendron. It touches on places I know well and brings to life a time when fire danger meant loading what you could into a wagon and hoping the wind shifted.

Today we think of wildfire as a modern problem, but this reminds us it’s been with us a long time. I’ll continue sharing these kinds of historical pieces here as I dig deeper into the story of Mount Hood’s past — and if you’ve got local stories or family history connected to this era, I’d love to hear them.

Read here for another close call with a Mt Hood Forest Fire in 1952

Mt Hood Forest Fires of 1910 - The Portland Oregon Daily Journal, August 28, 1910

Map Curve, Is it Natural, or Man Made?

Map Curve – Mt Hood Highway 26

A Subtle Curve in the Road — and in Time

As you drive the Mount Hood Loop Highway near Rhododendron, there’s a quiet spot where the pavement shifts ever so slightly — a subtle bend that hints at something older. My friend Paul Keller captured the feeling of that place in a short reflection he shared with me. It’s a reminder that even the smallest detours can carry a story, including the infamous Map Turn, or Map Curve to some.

Paul’s writing speaks for itself, and I’m sharing it here with his permission. His observations highlight one of those often-overlooked places that help bring Mount Hood’s history to life.

Guest Post by Paul Keller

Make no mistake — that map up there is the real thing

by Paul Keller

HUNCHBACK MOUNTAIN — This dispatch is being written, believe it or not, inside “The Map” — approximately North Dakota, maybe eastern Montana.

If you’re new here, “The Map” is the namesake of Map Turn — Highway 26’s answer to the masked executioner.

Map Turn is the sweeping curve located west of Government Camp — just downslope from the new truck escape ramp — where several persons have perished in auto accidents in recent years. Eleven to date, according to Hoodland Fire Chief Don Arnimroot. (Interesting footnote: since the state highway department’s safety improvements were installed recently — including the truck escape ramp, new guardrails and better signing — Map Turn has failed to injure anyone!).

All past victims, however, failed to negotiate the fatal Map Turn bend: careening off the brim, down into the teeth of Laurel Canyon. D.O.A.

Hence, Map Turn — at least prior to these highway improvements — had achieved it’s own notoriety. Sort of a lethal hall of life hero. That potential executioner waiting to send the next unfortunate motorist on to St. Peter’s Gate.

But back to the story. Why tag it “Map Turn?” What and where is this “map,” anyway?

To understand the nomenclature, apply the brakes and pull your heap over on this popular corner. Then look west, my friend, look west.

Up there (the here where I now sit) on the eastern facing backbone of distant Hunchback’s ridge, you’ll see it. How unmistakable, really. The Map.

The map of our United States that is.

An almost perfect rendition, too. Including a well defined Florida, the New England states, and — who knows how — even Alaska. Shortcomings include an omission of the Hawaiian Islands and a dwarfed Texas. (Nobody’s perfect).

Now about those long mulled tales defending this as a logged parcel of land purposely chain-sawed and tailored by man. Pure hogwash.

Take it from this hiking boot sore reporter. The Map is a natural phenomenon. A field of giant gray boulders and a few stubborn trees.

Goodness knows how this big stone pockmark ever took on the spitting image of America the Beautiful.

In fact, maybe the roadside term shouldn’t be dismissed as simply the land-mark for a well known highway turn that affords an unblemished view of it.

Perhaps this mysterious handiwork by Mom Nature — or whatever deity you prefer — might be the Mount Hood Corridor’s own sleeping version to England’s intriguing Stonehenge.

At least an appreciative cartographical society might consider somehow honoring our natural tribute to the good old U.S. of A.

Well it’s high time I trudged back down and filed this story. What? How did I get up here in the first place? That’s for you to figure out.

Try using, pardon the repetition, a map.

Reflections on the Map Curve

I’ve passed that curve myself more times than I can count. Paul’s words bring back memories of old maps, dusty road cuts, and the way the forest quietly swallows pieces of the past. These map turns — these forgotten realignments — are more than roadwork; they’re evidence of a changing era, from pioneer trail to automobile highway.

If you’ve ever noticed this spot, or have memories of the old alignment, I’d love to hear your story. Every detail helps piece together the lost landscape of Mount Hood.

The Legacy of Emil and Susette Franzetti and the Rhododendron Inn

Inn Keepers Emil and Susette Franzetti

A Historic Inn Lost to Time

Tucked beneath the towering firs of Mount Hood’s forests, the Rhododendron Inn once stood as one of Oregon’s most celebrated mountain retreats. Over time, it became a well-known stop for weary travelers, outdoor enthusiasts, and adventure seekers. Although the inn is now gone, its legacy remains woven into the region’s history.

Among the individuals who shaped its story, Emil and Susette Franzetti stand out. Their journey was filled with ambition, hospitality, and resilience. They turned the Rhododendron Inn into a thriving mountain getaway. However, tragedy eventually struck, leaving behind a story of perseverance that helped define early tourism in Oregon’s Mount Hood region.

The Rhododendron Inn - Emil and Suzette Franzetti — The front of the old Rhododendron Inn

A Hotel in the Wilderness

The Rhododendron Inn was not originally the Franzettis’ creation. In 1905, Henry S. Rowe, a former Portland mayor, established the inn on 160 acres near the Zigzag River. His vision was to create a peaceful retreat for city dwellers in search of fresh air and mountain solitude.

To make this dream a reality, Rowe enlisted the help of Lee Holden, Portland’s fire chief at the time. With his assistance, the rustic yet elegant lodge took shape. As road conditions improved, more visitors arrived, and the inn’s popularity soared. Eventually, it became a well-known stop for those traveling toward Mount Hood.

By 1912 its ownership changed. Recognizing the inn’s potential, two seasoned hoteliers, Emil and Susette Franzetti, stepped in to elevate its status.

Emil Franzetti: A Chef for Kings

Born in Lugano, Switzerland, Emil Franzetti was not just an innkeeper—he was a renowned chef. His career took him across Europe, where he trained in some of the finest hotels. Over time, his skills became so refined that he even cooked for the King of Italy.

In 1905, Emil immigrated to the United States, determined to advance his career. After working in New York, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C., he settled in Portland. There, he became the head chef at The Quelle, a famous restaurant celebrated for its crawfish dishes.

Despite his success, he longed for something different. For this reason, he and Suzette purchased the Rhododendron Inn in 1912. Their expertise and hospitality transformed the lodge into a premier mountain retreat.

A Premier Mountain Retreat

Under the Franzettis’ leadership, the Rhododendron Inn flourished. They expanded and enhanced the property, turning it into a highly sought-after destination.

Upgrades and Attractions:

A dance hall that hosted lively gatherings.
A spring-fed swimming pool for summer relaxation.
Tennis and croquet courts for sports enthusiasts.
Bridle paths and hiking trails, providing access to the surrounding forests.
Additional cottages and tent houses to accommodate more guests.

Emil’s warm hospitality made the inn unforgettable. Often, he personally caught fresh trout for guests, ensuring every meal was authentic and memorable. He was also an artist. The inn was decorated with his paintings. Furthermore, his world-class cuisine and welcoming personality helped solidify the Rhododendron Inn as one of Oregon’s most popular retreats.

Tragedy Strikes

While the inn thrived, misfortune struck the Franzetti family. On November 17, 1916, while traveling near Zigzag, Oregon, Emil’s car skidded off the road and overturned. A passing farmer eventually found him, trapped beneath the wreckage.

Rescuers rushed him to St. Vincent’s Hospital. Tragically, he never regained consciousness. At just 35 years old, Emil Franzetti passed away, leaving behind a thriving inn and a grieving wife.

His funeral took place at St. Mary’s Cathedral in Portland. To honor his memory, members of the Mazamas Mountain Climbing Club, of which he was a member, attended the ceremony. His loss devastated the Mount Hood community. Despite this, the Rhododendron Inn remained a beacon for travelers.

Susette’s Determination

Although Emil was gone, Susette Franzetti refused to let the Rhododendron Inn decline. Fluent in seven languages, she managed the business alone for seven more years.

Under her strong leadership, the inn continued attracting visitors. However, by 1923, she decided it was time to move on. She sold the Rhododendron Inn and subdivided much of the surrounding land.

Because of this, many properties in the area became home to Henry Steiner-built log cabins. These structures further enriched the architectural history of the region.

Franzetti Cabins, Rhododendron Oregon. — Franzetti Cabins

The Final Years of the Rhododendron Inn

Following Susette’s departure, the inn passed through multiple owners. Each transition marked a new chapter, but the original spirit of the place remained.

In 1932, a fire destroyed the annex building.
In 1943, new owner Thomas Rex renamed it the Rex Inn.
In 1949, a blowtorch accident caused a fire, reducing the inn to ashes.

Today, the site where the Rhododendron Inn once stood is barely recognizable. It lies just south of the modern highway, near the suspension bridge over the Zigzag River. While no buildings remain, the memories endure.

The Rhododendron Tavern - Emil and Suzette Franzetti — The Rhododendron Tavern

The Lasting Legacy of the Franzettis

The story of Emil and Susette Franzetti is not just about a lost inn. Instead, it stands as a testament to resilience, passion, and the pioneering spirit that shaped Oregon’s early tourism industry.

Though the Rhododendron Inn is gone, its impact remains. The Franzettis’ dedication helped develop the Mount Hood Highway, strengthening Rhododendron’s identity as a premier travel destination.

Next time you pass through Rhododendron, Oregon, take a moment to reflect. Picture the grand inn that once stood among the trees—its dance halls filled with music, fireplaces crackling with warmth, and Emil himself preparing fresh mountain trout for a guest.

Although time has erased the Rhododendron Inn, the spirit of Emil and Suzette Franzetti still lingers in the heart of Mount Hood’s history.

Do You Love Mount Hood History?

If you enjoyed this story, explore more forgotten tales of Oregon’s past on MountHoodHistory.com.

Have memories or stories about the Rhododendron Inn? Share them in the comments below!

Summit Meadow Pioneer Cemetery

The Historic Gravesites at Summit Meadow

A Legacy of the Oregon Trail

Near Government Camp, Oregon, within view of Mount Hood, at the Summit Meadow Pioneer Cemetery, a small white picket fence encloses three pioneer graves. These simple markers remind visitors of the dangers faced by emigrants traveling the Barlow Road, the final and most treacherous stretch of the Oregon Trail. Though many call it a cemetery, it is not an official burial ground. Instead, it holds historic gravesites, marking the final resting places of some of Mount Hood’s earliest travelers.

A Resting Place Along the Barlow Road

In 1846, Samuel Kimbrough Barlow carved out an overland route around the Columbia River Gorge. This trail became known as the Barlow Road, an alternative to the dangerous river route. However, the journey remained treacherous.

As they crossed over the south shoulder of Mount Hood, pioneers used Summit Meadow as a final place to rest and recover while crossing before the final stretch to the Willamette Valley. Unfortunately, some never left. As a result, families buried those who perished in the meadow’s soft ground.

The Graves at Summit Meadow Pioneer Cemetery

Inside the white picket fence, are three stones marking three graves. One belongs to Baby Barclay, the infant son of W.L. Barclay and his wife, immigrants who were camped at Summit Meadow in September 1882. The child had been born on the trail in July that year and was ill. He died at Summit Meadow. Another marks the grave of local legend Perry Vickers. According to local stories, Perry Vickers helped bury the Barclay child, even building a small wooden box for the burial. A third, unmarked gravestone stands next to them. It is believed to be the grave of a girl named Hannah Bond who was buried by her father there in 1853.

Baby Morgan Memorial

Just outside the fenced area, another stone plaque honors Baby Morgan. In October of 1847, an infant known only as Baby Morgan died while traveling the Oregon Trail with her family near Mount Hood. The daughter of Daniel and Rachel Morgan, she was born shortly after her mother died from illness on the trail in Wyoming. As the wagon train neared Oregon, the baby was injured during travel and passed away near what is now Summit Meadow. She was buried beside a distinctive rock said to resemble “house and chimney”. A landmark later used by descendants to locate her grave.

Today, a bronze plaque marks the site, honoring her as one of the Oregon Trail’s youngest pioneers. This grave is significant due to its connection with the early Barlow Trail established just a year before.

Although these are the only visible graves, they represent countless unnamed pioneers who never reached Oregon’s fertile valleys who lie in unmarked graves along the way.

Perry Vickers: A Mount Hood Legend

Among the graves rests Perry A. Vickers (1845–1883), an early settler, mountaineer, and innkeeper. He arrived in Oregon in 1865 and built Summit House, a way station for weary travelers along the Barlow Road. His lodge offered food, supplies, and shelter to those crossing the mountains.

In addition to running the lodge, Vickers became Mount Hood’s first known climbing guide. In 1870, he lit bonfires near Illumination Rock, hoping people in Portland could see them. Because of this, he helped promote Mount Hood as a climbing destination.

Tragically, his life ended in 1883. While serving on a posse, he was shot and killed. To honor his legacy, his final resting place became his beloved home at Summit Meadow, where he had spent much of his life helping others.

Perry Vickers buried in the Summit Meadow Pioneer Cemetery.

The White Picket Fence

A white white picket fence surrounds these graves, there is no entrance. The lack of a gate or walkway reinforces that this was never a formal cemetery. Instead, it serves as a memorial, preserving the history of a few Barlow Trail pioneers.

A Reminder of Oregon’s Pioneer Past

The gravesites at Summit Meadow Pioneer Cemetery offer a glimpse into Oregon’s pioneer era. More importantly, they remind visitors of the sacrifices, struggles, and stories of those who made the journey west.

Even though the markers are few, their significance remains powerful. Ultimately, they tell the story of hope, hardship, death and survival in Oregon’s early days