Susette Franzetti Rhododendron Oregon – Pioneer Innkeeper

Susette Franzetti Rhododendron Oregon – Pioneer Innkeeper

Susette Franzetti Rhododendron Oregon – Pioneer of Hospitality

From the Swiss Alps to Oregon’s Mount Hood

Before Rhododendron, Oregon, became a known mountain getaway, Susette Franzetti helped build its identity. A Swiss hotelier with European training, she transformed the area with hospitality, real estate, and resilience. Ultimately, the story of Susette Franzetti Rhododendron Oregon is one of independence and quiet determination.

A Lifelong Passion for Hospitality

Susette Franzetti was born in 1879 near Lake Constance, Switzerland. After graduating high school, she studied French in Geneva and began training in hotels across Lugano, London, the Italian Riviera, and Corsica. She spoke seven languages and worked in the front office, purchasing, and guest services.

“You can’t be a successful resort keeper unless you really have in your heart the spirit of hospitality,” she once said.

Starting a New Life in America

In 1905, Susette immigrated to the United States. She married Emil Franzetti, a renowned European chef, and together they lived in New York, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C. By 1909, they had settled in Portland, Oregon, where Emil became the head chef at The Quelle.

They were a powerhouse pair—Emil in the kitchen, Susette handling the business side.

Managing the Rhododendron Inn Alone

In 1911, the Franzettis purchased the Rhododendron Inn, originally developed by Portland’s former mayor, Henry S. Rowe. The 160-acre property quickly became a favorite stop for travelers and skiers.

Tragedy struck in 1916 when Emil died in an automobile accident. Even so, Susette carried on. She ran the inn alone for seven years, continuing to serve guests and manage operations.

Susette Franzetti Rhododendron Oregon

The Woman Who Helped Build Rhododendron

In 1923, Susette sold the Rhododendron Inn, but she didn’t slow down. She subdivided her land, built and sold 36 cottages, and helped shape what would become the town of Rhododendron. As a result, her sharp business sense and reputation for fairness left a lasting mark on the area.

In 1933, she said:

“I had 150 acres here, which I subdivided and sold in tracts and lots. I have built and sold 36 cottages here. Two-thirds of my property is already sold.”

Suitcases and Zeppelins: A Life of Travel

Despite living in the forest, Susette never stopped exploring. In 1925, she traveled to Europe via the Panama Canal. Four years later, she began a 16-month world tour, which included a Graf Zeppelin flight over England. Then in 1937, she boarded a ship in Portland bound for Naples to reunite with her brother from Switzerland.

Her love for travel and learning never faded.

Final Years and an Unseen Legacy

Susette spent her final years at Willamette Manor Convalescent Center, where she lived from 1957 until her death in 1972 at the age of 93. Her ashes were returned to her hometown of Romanshorn, Switzerland.

Although she left no surviving family, her influence still echoes through the cabins and lots she developed. To this day, her story is inseparable from the history of Rhododendron, Oregon.

Susette Franzetti’s Enduring Spirit

Few people did more to shape the look and spirit of early Rhododendron than Susette Franzetti. With her world-class hospitality background and independent spirit, she built a life rooted in generosity, vision, and perseverance.

The next time you walk the trails or pass through Rhododendron, picture a woman who once ran the inn, subdivided the land, and brought global perspective to a quiet corner of Oregon’s mountains.

Emil Franzetti Rhododendron Inn – Mount Hood’s Gourmet Chef

Emil Franzetti Rhododendron Inn – Mount Hood’s Gourmet Chef

The Culinary Legacy of Emil Franzetti

The Chef Who Brought Fine Dining to the Forest

Before ski resorts dotted the highway and travelers packed the trailheads, Emil Franzetti of the Rhododendron Inn brought elegance and fine cuisine to Oregon’s Mount Hood region. He helped transform the rugged wilderness into a mountain destination known for hospitality and good food.

At a time when most mountain lodging focused on bare essentials, Emil introduced elegance and culinary sophistication to a rugged frontier. He made people feel like honored guests, even in the Oregon woods.

From the Italian Lakes to Royal Kitchens

Emil was born near the Italian lakes and trained in Switzerland. He built a world-class culinary career, cooking in Corsica, London, and along the Italian Riviera. His expertise earned him the prestigious role of chef to the King of Italy, a rare honor that spoke volumes about his talent.

Portland, Crawfish, and a New Path to the Mountain

In 1905, Emil moved to the United States and married Susette, a hospitality professional he had met in Geneva. Together, they lived in New York, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C., where Emil worked at high-profile hotels, including the New Willard.

They eventually moved to Portland, Oregon. There, Emil became head chef at The Quelle, a restaurant celebrated for its crawfish cooked in wine. The Quelle was more than a restaurant—it was a culinary landmark. Emil’s role as head chef helped shape Portland’s fine dining scene. He spent four years there before he left for the little mountain community of Rhododendron.

Rhododendron Inn Becomes a Culinary Destination

In 1911, Emil and Susette bought the Rhododendron Inn, a lodge built by former Portland mayor Henry S. Rowe. Located on 160 wooded acres, the inn sat near the Zigzag River and welcomed travelers heading to Mount Hood.

Emil expanded the property and improved the guest experience. He added a dance hall, a swimming pool, bridle paths, and cozy guest cottages. He even caught trout himself from nearby streams and served them to guests. Emil created a space where rustic charm and refined hospitality came together.

Emil Franzetti Rhododendron Inn
Rhododendron Inn Annex

The Tragic Loss of Emil Franzetti

In November 1916, Emil drove near the Zigzag Ranger Station when his car slid into soft sand and flipped over. A passing farmer found him hours later, unconscious and pinned beneath the vehicle.

Rescuers brought him to St. Vincent’s Hospital, but Emil never regained consciousness. He died shortly after, at just 35 years old.

Friends and fellow outdoorsmen gathered at St. Mary’s Cathedral for his funeral. Members of the Mazamas Winter Skiing Club, many of whom Emil had personally hosted, paid their respects.

Emil Franzetti Rhododendron Inn

How Emil Franzetti Changed Rhododendron Forever

Although Emil lived a short life, his impact endures. After his death, Susette continued operating the Rhododendron Inn for seven more years. Her work honored Emil’s vision and helped develop the area into the mountain community it is today.

Together, Emil and Susette helped turn Rhododendron into a meaningful stop along the Mount Hood Highway. Emil’s commitment to quality, service, and hospitality laid a foundation that others built upon.

Emil’s Spirit in the Heart of the Mountain

The Rhododendron Inn burned down in 1949, but Emil’s legacy lives on through the stories of early Oregon hospitality. His time at the inn remains a powerful example of how one individual can elevate a place through heart, skill, and a deep respect for the guests he served.

So the next time you travel the Mount Hood Highway, picture Emil Franzetti, fresh trout in hand, preparing a meal with the same care he once gave to kings.

Emil Franzetti’s story is inseparable from the legacy of the Rhododendron Inn. To this day, visitors and locals remember Emil Franzetti Rhododendron Inn as a turning point in Mount Hood’s tourism history.


Read about Susette Franzetti HERE
Read about Emil and Susette at the Rhododendron Inn HERE

Burnt Lake Fire 1904: How the Lake Got Its Name

Burnt Lake Fire 1904: How the Lake Got Its Name

The Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 Still Leaves a Mark

If you’ve ever taken the trail up to Burnt Lake on the west side of Mount Hood, you’ve probably noticed the open ridges and the snags along the way—scarred trees that stand like ghosts among the newer growth. The Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 swept through this area, leaving damage so severe that the lake was named for it. Though the forest has mostly grown back, signs of that fire still linger, more than 120 years later.

Where Is Burnt Lake?

Burnt Lake sits in the Mount Hood National Forest, just east of Rhododendron. The trail climbs through a mix of Douglas fir, hemlock, and alder before reaching a quiet alpine basin with a view of Mount Hood reflected in the water. It’s a peaceful place now. However, in 1904, fire transformed the scene in a matter of days.

Burnt Lake Fire 1904
Burnt Lake Fire 1904 – Photo Cheryl Hill – www.cherylhill.net

How the Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 Started

On August 25, 1904, according to newspaper accounts, a man named Henry Harmand was burning brush near the Zigzag River. The fire quickly spread beyond his control. Based on land records and name variations common at the time, it’s likely that Henry Harmand was actually Heinrich “Henry” Haman, a homesteader who had settled in the area that would later become the townsite of Rhododendron.

That summer brought hot, dry conditions, and strong east winds fanned the flames. Once the fire reached thick timber, it moved fast. It tore across the slopes above Rhododendron, swept through the Burnt Lake Basin, and pushed toward Mount Hood and the trails to Lost Lake and Bull Run, Lolo Pass today.

Smoke and Flame Across Mount Hood’s West Side

Eyewitnesses saw a “wall of flame” rising up the ridges. Meanwhile, thick smoke drifted down into Government Camp and Sandy, where locals said they could hardly see. There were no fire crews in those days—only settlers, a few hikers, and travelers on horseback. Because of this, there was no way to stop it. The fire burned for days.

By August 28, 1904, the Oregon Daily Journal and Sunday Oregonian reported that the blaze still raged across the western slope of Mount Hood. The fire had destroyed stands of old-growth forest. Trails vanished under ash and smoke. Charred trees marked the fire’s path from Zigzag Creek to Zigzag Ridge and then toward Burnt Lake.

How Burnt Lake Got Its Name

After the fire, people began referring to the lake as Burnt Lake, a name that stuck. The name became part of local memory—and part of the map. Even today, hikers still pass the reminders. Dead snags are still found along the trail. The ridgeline above the lake opens to the sky where the canopy hasn’t fully returned. If you pay attention, you can still see the shape of the fire in the land. The Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 changed more than the trees—it gave a name to the place itself.

The Legacy of the Burnt Lake Fire 1904

The Burnt Lake Fire of 1904 was one of the first major wildfires recorded on Mount Hood’s west side. It reshaped the forest, scarred the ridges, and gave a name to one of the area’s most scenic lakes. Today, Burnt Lake still reflects Mount Hood—but also a story that burned its way into the history of this mountain.


Related Reading

Howard’s Hotel at Sharon Springs – A forgotten hotel from the same era, in Zigzag.
https://mounthoodhistory.com/zigzag/howards-hotel-sharon-springs/

The 1910 Mount Hood Fire – A massive blaze that followed just six years later.
https://mounthoodhistory.com/mount-hood/the-1910-mount-hood-fire/

History of Rhododendron, Oregon – The nearby town impacted by smoke and fire.
https://mounthoodhistory.com/mount-hood/rhododendron-oregon-history/

Billy Welch Welches Oregon

Billy Welch Welches Oregon

Billy Welch: The Heart and Soul of Welches, Oregon

A Young Pioneer – Billy Welch Welches Oregon

Billy Welch Welches Oregon – In the shadow of Mount Hood, where the Salmon River winds through a valley rich in history, the legacy of William “Billy” Welch remains deeply embedded in the land he called home. Billy Welch was more than just a homesteader — he was a community builder, a businessman, and a generous soul whose efforts helped shape the town that bears his family name.

Billy Welch was born on December 24, 1866. At the age of 16, he moved with his father, Samuel “Uncle Sam” Welch, to the Salmon River Valley. In 1882, they each claimed 160 acres of land and built a homestead. Over time, their property expanded to 1,000 acres.

Life on the Welch Ranch

The Welch ranch was a self-sufficient farm with pastures, barns, livestock, orchards, and a vegetable garden. Moreover, the nearby hills provided ample game. In addition, the Salmon River, which runs through the land, was teeming with fish. Billy continued to run the property as a ranch. Billy married Mamie Kopper in 1902 but Mamie died in 1903. Their daughter Lutie “Welch” Bailey was a resident of the area until her death.

Building a Community

Billy cared deeply about the growing settlement. In 1886, with neighbor Firmer Walkley, he claimed a one-acre plot at the junction of the Barlow Road and the road to Welches. They used this land to build the first Welches School. As a result, this early investment in education showed Billy’s dedication to the families establishing roots in the valley.

After Samuel’s death in 1889, Billy inherited the land and continued to develop the property. Not long after, tourists seeking respite from the city began arriving. Therefore, Billy responded by adapting the ranch to welcome them.

Welches Becomes a Destination

By 1905, the property was leased to Clinton “Linny” Kern and a Mr. Wrenn as a hotel resort. To keep up with demand of the tourists that were coming, Billy expanded the facilities. He added a dining hall, a dance hall, a store and a post office near the Welches Hotel. As demand increased, he also added tent cabins throughout the area. Billy took the hotel and property back from Kern and Wrenn in 1909.

In addition to running the resort, Billy remained focused on the growing community. In fact, he often supported neighbors and welcomed guests, making the Welch homestead a hub of local life. Furthermore, his hospitality created lasting memories for the many visitors who lived there or those who passed through.

A Life Full of Laughter and Music

People remember Billy as a jolly soul — good-natured, generous, and full of humor. He played the fiddle and hosted Saturday night dances that would sometimes last through the night, which were popular with both locals and visitors. These lively events took place in the dance hall above his store. There are stories told how the whole building seemed to rock while everyone danced to Billy and his fiddle and the occasional volunteer on the piano. The hall had an east-facing balcony. From there, guests cooled off and enjoyed moonlit views of Hunchback Mountain.

Billy also loved the outdoors. He was an avid hunter who relied on his hounds to flush out deer. Notably, his favorite dog, Leader, was a loyal companion on many trips. It’s common to see his dog next to him in photos. Whether he was playing music, greeting visitors, or roaming the forest with his dogs, Billy lived life with energy and joy.

Billy Welch Welches Oregon

A Strong Partnership

In April 1911, Billy married Jennie Faubion. She was the daughter of local homesteaders William and Anna Faubion. Together, Billy and Jennie managed the resort, store, post office, and dance hall. Jennie played a vital role in the operation and success of their ventures.

As Welches attracted more visitors, Billy began selling small plots of land to regular campers. Consequently, these families built summer cabins and returned year after year. This trend marked the beginning of Welches as a seasonal destination for recreation and relaxation that still exists today.

Over time, the town grew. Thanks to the couple’s efforts, Welches developed a strong reputation as a friendly, welcoming place. It became a destination loved by visitors and settlers alike. In many ways, their teamwork laid the foundation for the community spirit that still exists today.

Leaving a Legacy

In 1928, Billy leased part of his land to Ralph Waale, who constructed a nine-hole golf course and operated it until 1939. Eventually, after Waale stepped away, Billy and Jennie resumed control and managed the golf course until 1942.

Billy also served as the first postmaster of Welches, from 1905 until 1940. Through his service, he helped the growing community stay connected with the wider world. His work laid the foundation for the town’s lasting success. Additionally, after Billy passed, Jennie continued in this role until 1960. Her contributions further strengthened the continuity and spirit of the town.

Billy Welch Welches Oregon

A Lasting Memory

Billy Welch passed away on October 30, 1942. The land he helped develop eventually became a resort featuring a world-class golf course with sweeping views in all directions. Today, it remains a popular destination that continues to welcome visitors. Now known as The Mt. Hood Resort, it still sits in the same scenic valley that Billy and his father once called home.

Even though the cedar shake cabins and dance halls have almost faded, Billy’s name and spirit live on in Welches. He was more than a pioneer — he was the heart and soul of a community that still thrives in the shadow of Mount Hood.

Ultimately, Billy Welch’s legacy is one of vision, opportunity, connection, and joy. It serves as a reminder that one person’s dedication can shape an entire region for generations to come.

Billy Welch Welches Oregon

Map Curve, Is it Natural, or Man Made?

Map Curve, Is it Natural, or Man Made?

Map Curve – Mt Hood Highway 26

A Subtle Curve in the Road — and in Time

As you drive the Mount Hood Loop Highway near Rhododendron, there’s a quiet spot where the pavement shifts ever so slightly — a subtle bend that hints at something older. My friend Paul Keller captured the feeling of that place in a short reflection he shared with me. It’s a reminder that even the smallest detours can carry a story, including the infamous Map Turn, or Map Curve to some.

Paul’s writing speaks for itself, and I’m sharing it here with his permission. His observations highlight one of those often-overlooked places that help bring Mount Hood’s history to life.

Guest Post by Paul Keller

Make no mistake — that map up there is the real thing

by Paul Keller

HUNCHBACK MOUNTAIN — This dispatch is being written, believe it or not, inside “The Map” — approximately North Dakota, maybe eastern Montana.

If you’re new here, “The Map” is the namesake of Map Turn — Highway 26’s answer to the masked executioner.

Map Turn is the sweeping curve located west of Government Camp — just downslope from the new truck escape ramp — where several persons have perished in auto accidents in recent years. Eleven to date, according to Hoodland Fire Chief Don Arnimroot. (Interesting footnote: since the state highway department’s safety improvements were installed recently — including the truck escape ramp, new guardrails and better signing — Map Turn has failed to injure anyone!).

All past victims, however, failed to negotiate the fatal Map Turn bend: careening off the brim, down into the teeth of Laurel Canyon. D.O.A.

Hence, Map Turn — at least prior to these highway improvements — had achieved it’s own notoriety. Sort of a lethal hall of life hero. That potential executioner waiting to send the next unfortunate motorist on to St. Peter’s Gate.

But back to the story. Why tag it “Map Turn?” What and where is this “map,” anyway?

To understand the nomenclature, apply the brakes and pull your heap over on this popular corner. Then look west, my friend, look west.

Up there (the here where I now sit) on the eastern facing backbone of distant Hunchback’s ridge, you’ll see it. How unmistakable, really. The Map.

The map of our United States that is.

An almost perfect rendition, too. Including a well defined Florida, the New England states, and — who knows how — even Alaska. Shortcomings include an omission of the Hawaiian Islands and a dwarfed Texas. (Nobody’s perfect).

Now about those long mulled tales defending this as a logged parcel of land purposely chain-sawed and tailored by man. Pure hogwash.

Take it from this hiking boot sore reporter. The Map is a natural phenomenon. A field of giant gray boulders and a few stubborn trees.

Goodness knows how this big stone pockmark ever took on the spitting image of America the Beautiful.

In fact, maybe the roadside term shouldn’t be dismissed as simply the land-mark for a well known highway turn that affords an unblemished view of it.

Perhaps this mysterious handiwork by Mom Nature — or whatever deity you prefer — might be the Mount Hood Corridor’s own sleeping version to England’s intriguing Stonehenge.

At least an appreciative cartographical society might consider somehow honoring our natural tribute to the good old U.S. of A.

Well it’s high time I trudged back down and filed this story. What? How did I get up here in the first place? That’s for you to figure out.

Try using, pardon the repetition, a map.

Reflections on the Map Curve

I’ve passed that curve myself more times than I can count. Paul’s words bring back memories of old maps, dusty road cuts, and the way the forest quietly swallows pieces of the past. These map turns — these forgotten realignments — are more than roadwork; they’re evidence of a changing era, from pioneer trail to automobile highway.

If you’ve ever noticed this spot, or have memories of the old alignment, I’d love to hear your story. Every detail helps piece together the lost landscape of Mount Hood.

The Legacy of Emil and Susette Franzetti and the Rhododendron Inn

The Legacy of Emil and Susette Franzetti and the Rhododendron Inn

Inn Keepers Emil and Susette Franzetti

A Historic Inn Lost to Time

Tucked beneath the towering firs of Mount Hood’s forests, the Rhododendron Inn once stood as one of Oregon’s most celebrated mountain retreats. Over time, it became a well-known stop for weary travelers, outdoor enthusiasts, and adventure seekers. Although the inn is now gone, its legacy remains woven into the region’s history.

Among the individuals who shaped its story, Emil and Susette Franzetti stand out. Their journey was filled with ambition, hospitality, and resilience. They turned the Rhododendron Inn into a thriving mountain getaway. However, tragedy eventually struck, leaving behind a story of perseverance that helped define early tourism in Oregon’s Mount Hood region.

The Rhododendron Inn - Emil and Suzette Franzetti

The front of the old Rhododendron Inn

A Hotel in the Wilderness

The Rhododendron Inn was not originally the Franzettis’ creation. In 1905, Henry S. Rowe, a former Portland mayor, established the inn on 160 acres near the Zigzag River. His vision was to create a peaceful retreat for city dwellers in search of fresh air and mountain solitude.

To make this dream a reality, Rowe enlisted the help of Lee Holden, Portland’s fire chief at the time. With his assistance, the rustic yet elegant lodge took shape. As road conditions improved, more visitors arrived, and the inn’s popularity soared. Eventually, it became a well-known stop for those traveling toward Mount Hood.

By 1912 its ownership changed. Recognizing the inn’s potential, two seasoned hoteliers, Emil and Susette Franzetti, stepped in to elevate its status.

The Rhododendron Inn - Emil and Suzette Franzetti

The Rhododendron Inn Interior

Emil Franzetti: A Chef for Kings

Born in Lugano, Switzerland, Emil Franzetti was not just an innkeeper—he was a renowned chef. His career took him across Europe, where he trained in some of the finest hotels. Over time, his skills became so refined that he even cooked for the King of Italy.

In 1905, Emil immigrated to the United States, determined to advance his career. After working in New York, Baltimore, and Washington, D.C., he settled in Portland. There, he became the head chef at The Quelle, a famous restaurant celebrated for its crawfish dishes.

The Rhododendron Inn - Emil and Suzette Franzetti
The Rhododendron Inn 1930

Despite his success, he longed for something different. For this reason, he and Suzette purchased the Rhododendron Inn in 1912. Their expertise and hospitality transformed the lodge into a premier mountain retreat.

A Premier Mountain Retreat

Under the Franzettis’ leadership, the Rhododendron Inn flourished. They expanded and enhanced the property, turning it into a highly sought-after destination.

Upgrades and Attractions:

  • A dance hall that hosted lively gatherings.
  • A spring-fed swimming pool for summer relaxation.
  • Tennis and croquet courts for sports enthusiasts.
  • Bridle paths and hiking trails, providing access to the surrounding forests.
  • Additional cottages and tent houses to accommodate more guests.

Emil’s warm hospitality made the inn unforgettable. Often, he personally caught fresh trout for guests, ensuring every meal was authentic and memorable. He was also an artist. The inn was decorated with his paintings. Furthermore, his world-class cuisine and welcoming personality helped solidify the Rhododendron Inn as one of Oregon’s most popular retreats.

Tragedy Strikes

While the inn thrived, misfortune struck the Franzetti family. On November 17, 1916, while traveling near Zigzag, Oregon, Emil’s car skidded off the road and overturned. A passing farmer eventually found him, trapped beneath the wreckage.

Rescuers rushed him to St. Vincent’s Hospital. Tragically, he never regained consciousness. At just 35 years old, Emil Franzetti passed away, leaving behind a thriving inn and a grieving wife.

His funeral took place at St. Mary’s Cathedral in Portland. To honor his memory, members of the Mazamas Mountain Climbing Club, of which he was a member, attended the ceremony. His loss devastated the Mount Hood community. Despite this, the Rhododendron Inn remained a beacon for travelers.

Susette’s Determination

Although Emil was gone, Susette Franzetti refused to let the Rhododendron Inn decline. Fluent in seven languages, she managed the business alone for seven more years.

Under her strong leadership, the inn continued attracting visitors. However, by 1923, she decided it was time to move on. She sold the Rhododendron Inn and subdivided much of the surrounding land.

Because of this, many properties in the area became home to Henry Steiner-built log cabins. These structures further enriched the architectural history of the region.

Franzetti Cabins, Rhododendron Oregon.
Franzetti Cabins

The Final Years of the Rhododendron Inn

Following Susette’s departure, the inn passed through multiple owners. Each transition marked a new chapter, but the original spirit of the place remained.

  • In 1932, a fire destroyed the annex building.
  • In 1943, new owner Thomas Rex renamed it the Rex Inn.
  • In 1949, a blowtorch accident caused a fire, reducing the inn to ashes.

Today, the site where the Rhododendron Inn once stood is barely recognizable. It lies just south of the modern highway, near the suspension bridge over the Zigzag River. While no buildings remain, the memories endure.

The Rhododendron Tavern - Emil and Suzette Franzetti
The Rhododendron Tavern

The Lasting Legacy of the Franzettis

The story of Emil and Susette Franzetti is not just about a lost inn. Instead, it stands as a testament to resilience, passion, and the pioneering spirit that shaped Oregon’s early tourism industry.

Though the Rhododendron Inn is gone, its impact remains. The Franzettis’ dedication helped develop the Mount Hood Highway, strengthening Rhododendron’s identity as a premier travel destination.

Next time you pass through Rhododendron, Oregon, take a moment to reflect. Picture the grand inn that once stood among the trees—its dance halls filled with music, fireplaces crackling with warmth, and Emil himself preparing fresh mountain trout for a guest.

Although time has erased the Rhododendron Inn, the spirit of Emil and Suzette Franzetti still lingers in the heart of Mount Hood’s history.

Do You Love Mount Hood History?

If you enjoyed this story, explore more forgotten tales of Oregon’s past on MountHoodHistory.com.

Have memories or stories about the Rhododendron Inn? Share them in the comments below!


Arrah Wanna Hotel in Wemme Oregon

Arrah Wanna Hotel in Wemme Oregon

A History of Arrah Wanna

The Birth of Arrah Wanna Hotel

Nestled in the picturesque surroundings of the Salmon River in Wemme, Oregon, the Arrah Wanna Lodge began its story in 1909 when George Routledge acquired 160 acres of timberland. At the time, the land sat about a mile from the nearest automobile road, making it an ideal mountain retreat.

That same year, the Mount Hood Hotel Company, led by C. W. Kern, J. R. Routledge, and R. Woods, announced plans to construct a Swiss Chalet-style hotel. Kern had previously operated the Welches Hotel for five years. By 1910, construction had begun on an 80 x 90-foot, two-story building with 40 rooms and wide verandas. The hotel featured rough timber finishes, large stone fireplaces, and running water. The estimated construction cost reached $20,000, and the hotel planned to open for the 1910 season.

Early Years and Challenges

Although the hotel was completed, financial struggles soon arose. Nevertheless, its location and design attracted conventions and gatherings, including a YMCA conference in 1916. Despite these successes, ownership changed in 1918 when J. L. Bowman of the Brownsville Woolen Mill Store in Portland purchased the property. Bowman then leased the hotel to Mr. and Mrs. George L. Spencer, who enhanced its reputation as a high-class resort. They introduced specialty meals, such as chicken dinners and the famous “Spencer Hot Gingerbread.” A giant fir tree near the hotel became a major attraction, measuring 41 feet in circumference and 300 feet tall.

A Tragic Fire and Rebirth

On June 5, 1922, tragedy struck when the Arrah Wanna Hotel burned to the ground. Strong winds fanned the flames, reducing the wooden structure to ruins in just 30 minutes. Fortunately, the surrounding cottages and J. L. Bowman’s summer home survived the disaster.

Determined to rebuild, Bowman oversaw the construction of a new hotel by May 1924. The new lodge featured 17 guest rooms and 10 bungalows. Built primarily of native fir with hard maple floors, the hotel also included modern conveniences. An electric plant at the Salmon River provided power, while hot and cold running water improved guest comfort. Traditional activities such as hiking, trout fishing, and berry picking remained popular. Additionally, a boardwalk along the river and new bungalows enhanced the visitor experience.

Growth and Changing Management

John L. Bowman passed away in July 1928. As the president of the Brownsville Woolen Mills, he had played a significant role in the history of the Arrah Wanna Hotel for a decade.

Throughout the 1920s and 1930s, the Arrah Wanna Hotel underwent various management changes and improvements. Advertisements promoted dining options, including their specialty $1.50 chicken dinners with mashed potatoes and gravy. Entertainment such as music, dancing, and campfire gatherings enriched the guest experience. By 1936, the lodge began serving beer under a new license. Despite these efforts, financial difficulties persisted, leading to periodic closures and the hotel being listed for sale or lease.

Oregon Baptist Church Buys Arrah Wanna

In 1941, the lodge entered a new chapter when a Baptist church group purchased the property for $12,750. Their vision was to create a summer camp, leading to the birth of Camp Arrah Wanna. That summer, the camp hosted its first youth retreat. A five-year improvement plan soon followed, adding a Bible house, tabernacle, dining hall, and swimming pool. Over time, the camp became a cornerstone for religious retreats and youth activities in the area.

Into Modern Times

By 1952, a new swimming pool was constructed, and in 1962, $50,000 was allocated for further improvements. Beginning in 1969, Camp Arrah Wanna became one of the locations hosting Portland Public Schools’ Outdoor School program. During this six-day outdoor experience, sixth-grade students learned about science and nature while immersing themselves in the wilderness.

Today, Camp Arrah Wanna remains under the ownership of the American Baptist Churches of the Central Pacific Coast. It serves as a retreat and recreational facility, also hosting conferences and events for various groups.

Legacy of the Arrah Wanna Hotel

From its early days as a luxurious mountain hotel to its transformation into a church camp and community center, the Arrah Wanna Hotel has played a vital role in Oregon’s history. Its scenic location, engaging activities, and mountain lodge charm continue to captivate visitors. As a beloved landmark in the Mount Hood area, its legacy endures, reflecting the rich heritage of the region.

Zigzag Cabin Owner: A Local Legend

Zigzag Cabin Owner: A Local Legend

Portland’s Buffalo Bill – William DeVeny

An Active Community Participant

In the early 1900s, Portland’s Montavilla neighborhood was home to one of its most fascinating figures: Dr. William DeVeny. Known as the “Buffalo Bill of Portland,” William DeVeny was a community leader, civic advocate, and larger-than-life character. His influence stretched beyond Montavilla and into the Mount Hood region, where he worked to improve access to the wilderness.

DeVeny’s striking appearance—long hair, a thick beard, and signature buckskin attire—earned him his nickname. According to some accounts, Buffalo Bill Cody himself gave him the title. Yet, DeVeny was more than just a local icon—he was a man of action.

A Visionary for Montavilla

DeVeny dedicated himself to improving Montavilla. As secretary of the Montavilla Board of Trade, he led efforts to attract new businesses, including a fruit cannery, chair factory, and broom factory. He also pushed for better schools, clean water, and libraries, believing these essentials would help Montavilla thrive.

One of his most ambitious projects was Montavilla’s annexation to Portland. He argued that annexation would bring stronger infrastructure, including deeper water mains to prevent freezing and increased school funding. Although his campaign initially failed, he continued to fight for it.

In 1907, he ran for city council, hoping to create more change. However, his campaign faced controversy when petition collectors submitted duplicate signatures. Though DeVeny did not commit fraud, officials removed his name from the ballot. This setback ended his political aspirations, but not his commitment to the community.

He saw the need for better roads in the region. To improve access, he led the construction of a road connecting the Mount Hood automobile road to Truman Road on the north side of the Sandy River. The project, called DeVeny Road, required the building of several bridges. This new route made travel easier for settlers, forest rangers, and tourists.

Building Roads to Mount Hood

DeVeny’s passion for development extended into the Mount Hood wilderness. He owned a cabin near the mountain, which he called The Scout’s Rest, inspired by Buffalo Bill Cody’s Nebraska ranch.

By 1913, construction was complete. This road became a key link for travelers and helped boost tourism in the Mount Hood region. Eventually, it was renamed Lolo Pass Road, but DeVeny’s work remains a vital part of the area’s history.

A Complex and Evolving Figure

DeVeny’s views changed over time. Once a supporter of military training for boys, he later spoke out against war, particularly as World War I approached. Some believe he changed his stance because his sons became eligible for the draft.

Beyond civic work, DeVeny was a skilled chiropodist (foot doctor) and an accomplished photographer. Alongside his wife, Martha, he operated photography studios before settling in Portland.

He also supported women’s suffrage and equal rights, reflecting a progressive mindset that was ahead of his time.

A Lasting Legacy

Dr. William DeVeny passed away in 1918 at age 65. The Oregonian honored him as a civic leader, community advocate, and friend of famous frontiersmen. His contributions to Montavilla and Mount Hood shaped Oregon’s history in ways still seen today.

Today, hikers in Mount Hood’s forests and residents in Montavilla’s streets walk paths influenced by his work. His life is a powerful reminder of how one determined individual can shape a community’s future.

The Modern Barlow Trail Road

The Modern Barlow Trail Road

The Historic Paths of Barlow Trail Road and Lolo Pass Road

Have you ever driven along Barlow Trail Road or Lolo Pass Road and wondered about their origins? These quiet, winding roads are more than just modern routes—they are living pieces of history.

Long before cars or bicycles rolled over them, these paths were game trails and footpaths used by the region’s first inhabitants. Later, Oregon Trail pioneers relied on them as lifelines to complete their westward journey. Over time, they evolved into crucial connections for local residents and the modern communities we know today.

  and wondered about their origins? These quiet, winding roads are more than just modern routes—they are living pieces of history.

From Wagon Wheels to Hackett Road

In the mid-1800s, the original Barlow Trail served as a rough but vital route for settlers completing the Oregon Trail. As pioneers descended from Mount Hood, they followed the north side of the Zigzag River until they reached the Sandy River. At the big bend of the Sandy, they crossed over a log bridge built by settlers.

Later, the trail shifted to the south side of the Sandy River, leaving behind remnants of the earlier path. As a result, settlers repurposed parts of the old trail into local roads, including Hackett Road. This road, named after early settlers in the area, still carries their legacy in the name of nearby Hackett Creek.

The McIntyre Bridge: A Critical Connection

By 1910, settlers struggled to access the road on the north side of the Sandy River. Early bridges were unstable and often washed away, making travel difficult. That year, J.T. McIntyre, an early settler in Brightwood, took action. He built a sturdy bridge over the Sandy River, providing reliable access to the road on the north side.

This new bridge transformed travel in the area. Residents could now cross the river safely, and it became a key link for the growing community. Without McIntyre’s efforts, settlers on the north side would have remained isolated from the developing Mount Hood automobile road nearby. Consequently, his work played a crucial role in connecting these remote settlements.

  and wondered about their origins? These quiet, winding roads are more than just modern routes—they are living pieces of history.

The Road to The Truman Farm

Around the same time, Ezra and Eliza Truman homesteaded on the north side of the Sandy River, near Zigzag Ridge. Ezra, a mountain guide and farmer, relied on the newly connected road to reach his homestead. He used it to deliver milk and produce to his neighbors.

Over time, this route became known as Truman Road, named after the family who lived at its farthest end. Even after Ezra’s death in 1917, the road remained essential. It provided access to settler homes, cabins, and lodges, supporting the early tourism industry that grew alongside the increase in automobile travel to Mount Hood. Because of this, the area became a gateway for visitors exploring the region.

  and wondered about their origins? These quiet, winding roads are more than just modern routes—they are living pieces of history.

DeVeny Road: A Valuable Connection

In the early 1900s, Dr. William DeVeny, a Zigzag cabin owner and civic leader from Montavilla (now part of Portland), saw the need for better road access. With support from the Mount Hood Improvement Association and local government funding, he led the construction of DeVeny Road.

The new road linked the Mount Hood automobile road on the south side of the Sandy River to the east end of Truman Road on the north side. By 1913, the project was complete. Bridges were built over Bear Creek, the Zigzag River, and the Sandy River, creating a vital route for settlers, forest rangers, and early visitors to the Mount Hood wilderness. As a result, travel between the two sides of the Sandy River became much easier, further opening the area to development.

  and wondered about their origins? These quiet, winding roads are more than just modern routes—they are living pieces of history.

A Modern Legacy

As time passed, these roads continued to serve local communities while adapting to modern needs. In 1979, the Clackamas County Historical Society honored the pioneers by renaming Truman Road to Barlow Trail Road. This change recognized the historical importance of the original Barlow Trail.

Meanwhile, DeVeny Road became part of Lolo Pass Road, and its original name faded from memory. Yet, the routes themselves remain a testament to those who built them. Although the names have changed, their significance has not been forgotten.

Roads Worth Remembering

Today, whether you’re coming home, heading out, or simply enjoying a scenic drive, you are traveling through history. These roads are more than just asphalt and gravel—they are stories of resilience, determination, and community.

So, next time you find yourself driving down Barlow Trail Road or Lolo Pass Road, take a moment to appreciate the history beneath your wheels. After all, you are following in the footsteps and wagon tracks of those who came before us

  and wondered about their origins? These quiet, winding roads are more than just modern routes—they are living pieces of history.
Lolo Pass Ski Trip

Lolo Pass Ski Trip

A Classic Lolo Pass Ski Trip from 1955

Lolo Pass, located on the west side of Mount Hood, is a historic mountain route connecting Zigzag on the southwest side to the Hood River Valley on the north. The road runs between Mount Hood’s western slopes and the Bull Run watershed, the primary water source for Portland.

A Glimpse into the Past

As a collector of old Mount Hood photographs, I recently came across a fascinating set of images from a Lolo Pass ski trip in 1955. These medium-format negatives, dated April 5, 1955, capture a group of skiers enjoying a perfect day in the snow.

The photos reveal a breathtakingly clear view of Mount Hood in the distance. The skiers appear well-prepared for their journey, and one detail stands out—they seem to have access to a gated road, an unusual privilege even at the time. One image even includes a sign marking the Bull Run Lake Trail, a landmark that helps confirm their location.

Lolo Pass Then and Now

While much of Lolo Pass Road remains accessible today, things have changed significantly. Since the passage of the Patriot Act, access to everything west of Lolo Pass Road leading to Bull Run Lake has been restricted. The area, once open to recreation, is now off-limits to protect Portland’s drinking water supply.

Despite these changes, many of the viewpoints captured in the 1955 photos remain unchanged. If you were to visit today, you could still recognize some of the same scenic overlooks, standing where these skiers once enjoyed their day in the snow nearly 70 years ago.

These photos serve as a rare and nostalgic window into a time when adventure on Lolo Pass was freer and less restricted—a reminder of Mount Hood’s enduring beauty and history.

Pacific Crest Trail
Springs Indian Reservation (10) Timberline Lodge Mount Hood Wilderness Lolo Pass Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area (8) Mark O. Hatfield Wilderness