Vintage Photograph of Mt Hood from Lookout Mountain
“On Lookout Mountain with Mt Hood as a background.”
Not a lot has changed in the last 100 years once you hit the trail… well, maybe the clothing but we still get the same feeling of freedom when we stand on a place like this with Mt Hood as a background.
Lookout Mountain is on the east side of Mount Hood and was once the location of a fire look out. The look out building has been gone since 1966 but the foundation is still there.
Back when this photo was made there was no fire look out like we’re familiar with. There was most likely just the alidade, or triangulation device, and a log cabin in the field below.
You can get to there two ways. The hard way or the easy way. You can either catch a trail near Robinhood Campground on Highway 35 and hike about 6.5 miles with about a 3000 foot elevation gain, or you can drive up to High Prairie off of the old Dufur Road and walk a gentle old road for about a mile and a half.
A Message from William “Billy” Welch from the grave.
A signature of William “Billy” Welch from 1902. This was prior to the establishment of Welches as a town. Billy seems to have been in a grim mood when he wrote this. Sadly his wife Mamie Kopper would die soon after.
“Salmon River.
Jan 8, 1902
Think of me when this you see Though in this world I may not be But if my grave should be my bed Remember me when I am dead.
Yours Truly
W. Welch”
I wonder if he really thought that people would be thinking of him over 100 years later?
Here’s a scene from the days before the Palmer Lift was installed of some classic Tucker Sno-Cats. The first two photos show a unique 20 passenger model 743 Transport Sno-Cat called “The Shoebox”. The third photo shows a traditional model 443 four track machine.
The shoebox carried multiple passengers up above the lodge past the Silcox Hut to Triangle Moraine and the Palmer Snowfield for Summer Ski before the Palmer Ski Lift was built.
Silcox Hut was the upper terminus for the original Magic Mile ski lift built in 1938. The Palmer Ski Lift was built in 1978.
The Tucker Snow-Cats have been used in some sort of capacity since the beginning of the ski industry on Mount Hood. They have a tradition on the mountain that is still celebrated in the form of a recently acquired meticulously restored Tucker Snow-Cat for display at the lodge.
The Tucker Sno–Cat is a tracked vehicle or a family of tracked vehicles for snow
conditions, manufactured in Medford, Oregon. Different models have been used …
Mud Lake in 1951 during the filming of Bend of The River with James Stewart, Arthur Kennedy, Julie Adams, and Rock Hudson. Mud Creek will be dammed to become Trillium Lake about nine years later in 1960 during the development of camping and recreational facilities.
Trillium Lake was created for the perfect photograph. At times Mount Hood reflects perfectly in the surface of the water.
The Rhododendron Inn: A Lost Landmark of Mount Hood
In the early days of travel on the south side of Mount Hood, weary travelers relied on roadhouses and inns for a bed and a meal as they made their way up the old road to the mountain. The roads were rough, and automobiles were slow. Unlike today’s quick hour-long drive from Portland to Mount Hood, early motorists often spent the better part of a day reaching their destination.
As a result, numerous roadhouses, hotels, and restaurants sprang up along the route to serve visitors. In the town of Rhododendron, one of the most well-known stops was the Rhododendron Inn—a mountain retreat that became an essential piece of the area’s history.
The Founding of the Rhododendron Inn
The Rhododendron Inn was built in 1905 by Henry S. Rowe, who served as Portland’s mayor from 1900 to 1902. He chose 160 acres of land he owned in Rhododendron, believing the location to be perfect for a wilderness retreat. To bring his vision to life, he enlisted Lee Holden, Portland’s fire chief during Rowe’s administration. Holden not only designed the inn but also oversaw its construction.
By 1910, Holden took over ownership of the hotel. That same year, the Rowe post office was established at the inn. However, in 1920, the name was changed to Rhododendron, as required by the U.S. Post Office Department.
Emil and Suzette Franzetti: The Inn’s Golden Years
In 1912, Emil and Suzette Franzetti, experienced European hoteliers, purchased the Rhododendron Inn from Holden. Born in Lugano, Switzerland, Emil Franzetti was not only an innkeeper but also a renowned chef whose career took him across Europe, where he trained in some of the finest hotels. His skills became so exceptional that he even cooked for the King of Italy.
Before coming to Mount Hood, Emil had worked as a head chef in top U.S. establishments, including The Quelle in Portland, famous for its crawfish dishes. However, he and Suzette saw an opportunity to transform the Rhododendron Inn into a first-class mountain resort, offering guests an unforgettable experience in the wilderness.
A Premier Mountain Retreat
Under the Franzettis’ leadership, the Rhododendron Inn flourished, attracting visitors seeking both relaxation and adventure. They expanded and modernized the property, introducing a range of new amenities:
A 60’x100’ dance hall that hosted lively evening entertainment.
A 50’x100’ spring-fed concrete swimming pool, providing summer recreation.
Tennis and croquet courts, catering to sports enthusiasts.
Bridle paths and hiking trails, offering direct access to the surrounding forests.
An annex across the road, plus several cottages and tent houses, giving guests more lodging options.
Emil’s culinary expertise also became a major draw. He personally caught fresh trout for guests, ensuring that each meal was high-quality and memorable. His dedication to hospitality helped solidify the Rhododendron Inn as one of Oregon’s most celebrated retreats.
Tragedy Strikes: The Death of Emil Franzetti
Despite their success, tragedy struck the Franzetti family. On November 17, 1916, Emil Franzetti was driving near the Zigzag Ranger Station when his car skidded off the road and overturned in soft sand. He was trapped beneath the vehicle for hours before a passing farmer discovered him.
Although rescuers rushed him to St. Vincent’s Hospital, Emil never regained consciousness. At just 35 years old, his life was tragically cut short. His funeral was held at St. Mary’s Cathedral in Portland, where members of the Mazamas Winter Skiing Club honored him.
Suzette, however, refused to let Emil’s death end their dream.
Suzette Franzetti’s Determination
For seven years after Emil’s passing, Suzette Franzetti continued running the Rhododendron Inn on her own. Fluent in seven languages, she managed the business with skill and resilience, maintaining the inn’s reputation as a premier mountain retreat.
However, in 1924, she made the decision to move on. She sold the inn and 20 acres to William and Julia Cash. The remaining land was subdivided into lots, many of which became home to Henry Steiner-built log cabins, which still stand today.
The Final Years of the Rhododendron Inn
Following Suzette’s departure, the Rhododendron Inn changed hands multiple times. While the inn continued to operate, each transition marked a new era for the property.
In 1932, a fire destroyed the annex building.
In 1943, new owner Thomas Rex renamed it the Rex Inn.
In 1949, during a harsh winter cold snap, the inn caught fire and burned to the ground. Reports suggest that a blowtorch used to thaw frozen pipes may have accidentally ignited the blaze.
The Lost Landmark: What Remains Today?
The Rhododendron Inn once stood in a location just south of today’s Highway 26, near the pedestrian suspension bridge over the Zigzag River on the west side of town.
Today, all traces of the inn are lost. No structures remain, and nature has reclaimed the land where guests once danced, dined, and explored the wilderness. While the inn itself is gone, its legacy lives on in the history of Mount Hood tourism and the stories of those who passed through its doors.
Remembering the Rhododendron Inn
The Rhododendron Inn was more than just a hotel—it was a symbol of Mount Hood’s early tourism industry. Thanks to the vision of Henry S. Rowe, the craftsmanship of Lee Holden, and the dedication of Emil and Suzette Franzetti, it became a beloved destination for travelers seeking both adventure and luxury in the mountains.
Although time has erased the Rhododendron Inn, its story remains an important chapter in Oregon’s history.
Discover More Mount Hood History
If you love learning about Oregon’s past, check out more stories at MountHoodHistory.com.
Do you have memories or stories about the Rhododendron Inn? Share them in the comments below!
“All The Young Men” Movie Filmed on Mount Hood December 13, 1959.
Korea came to Mt. Hood when Columbia Pictures’ “All the Young Men” was filmed on the snow-clad slopes. Here Walt Aeppli, chief engineer at Timberline Lodge: Don Bar, member of lift crew,: desk clerk Warren Clancey and Brad Holt, lift crew member, appear as extras in war picture. (Photo by Dick Kohnstamm)
Transporting M-41, 26-ton tank from Fort Lewis, Wash., to Timberline Lodge, to be used in Korean war film being shot on location, this week provided side drama. Aboard a truck, the tank was stopped at the Oregon border as legally too heavy for Oregon highways. A bigger truck finally made transport.
In the day and age of quick trips to the store for a gallon of milk as well as refrigeration to preserve the milk we sometimes forget that our ancestors didn’t have those conveniences.
Billy Welch was a resort proprietor. He ran the Welch’s Ranch in a way as to include most supplies that the visitors, hotel guests, cabin dwellers as well as campers might need during their stay. He had a dance hall, restaurant, post office, was a notary public and operated a store, much like convenience stores of today, that had everything from candy for the kids to food for meals as well as other items of necessity.
In its early stages Billy’s store had no refrigeration. In lieu of coolers or or ice chests he had a cold shed down at the Salmon River where he had diverted the cold water from the river through the shed. It kept the shed chilled and things such as jars of milk could be preserved by sitting in the cold water bath.
To purchase your milk you would buy aluminum tokens at the store and then, as you needed milk, you would go to the cold shed and drop your token in the can and take your jar of cold milk. Billy had two denominations. One pint and one quart. On one side it read WELCH’S RANCH. On the other it read GOOD FOR 1 PINT or GOOD FOR 1 QUART.
Today these Welch’s Ranch Tokens are quite scarce.
At one time there was the American – Swiss Model Garden Brightwood, Oregon.
This is only one of many small businesses and tourist themed stopping spots along the highway to Mount Hood in the 1940-1960’s. This is an old flyer advertising the American – Swiss Model Garden at Brightwood, Oregon.
If anyone reading this can positively identify the location of this place I will revise this article and add that information. Thank you.
“Open from Dawn to Dusk. Open early April until the end of October. Bring you camera along.
Nowhere is there anything like it and this is certainly true for the American – Swiss Model Garden. It is a lovely combination of a lovely rock and flower garden, featuring small water-pools, rustic looking bridges, miniature waterfalls, as well as miniature Alpine houses and castles. Through the greater part of the garden a miniature railroad is running, fascinating young and old. Three trains (freight, passenger, and express), all Swiss styled, alternate in running through the garden. A picturesque alpine village, miniature size, containing the railroad station, church, castle and a number of Swiss Alpine houses, amazes all visitors.
Flower lovers also will be thrilled by the variety of the many flower beds, just to mention the American and Swiss flags done in flowers. Beautiful hanging baskets add much to the beauty and atmosphere of this garden. Edelweiss and Alpenrosen are among the outstanding rock plants. Of special interest is the rose garden section, containing rose bushes, climbing roses, tree roses, and miniature roses.
The garden is placed in a natural setting and its atmosphere is very informal and relaxing. As you admire and enjoy it, music, mostly Swiss Alpine (accordian (sic) and yodeling), will accompany you.
A truly beautiful garden… a place worthwhile to visit.”
It’s certainly a shame that we no longer have such a simple culture to support such businesses as the American – Swiss Model Garden Brightwood, Oregon.
A View from The Roof of Cloud Cap Inn – Circa 1900.
Cloud Cap Inn was built in 1889 and opened August 6th of the same year. It was built by William Ladd, a Portland banker and C.E.S. Wood a Portland attorney. It was Woods wife, Nannie, who named the hotel.
Prior to building the Inn they bought the road and created the Mt. Hood Stage Co. The road needed improvements before building could begin. Chinese laborers were employed in the project. A stretch of road referred to as “China Fill” was a 22-percent grade and was a challenge to the early automobiles attempting the trip. The original road didn’t follow today’s road. As you drive up to the Inn you can still see the old road intersect the new occasionally. It ran along the ridge between Evans Creek and Crystal Springs Creek.
The same architectural firm that designed Cloud Cap Inn designed the Forestry Building for the Lewis and Clark Exposition in Portland in 1905. All of the logs came from around the building site. Cables were used to hold the building down during high winds. Wind did end up blowing down one of the original chimneys in the early 1900’s. Water was supplied to the Inn from Tilly Jane Creek, 1200 feet away.
Business was slow in the beginning. The Inn closed down in 1890 and Ladd and Wood turned over operation of the Inn to James Langille’s wife, Sarah, nick named Tansana, in 1891. Sarah ran Cloud Cap at a much simpler level and was able to operate at a profit. Her two son’s Will and Doug worked at the Inn as mountain guides.
A tradition was started where when a person made a summit ascent they were allowed to take their personal business card and thumbtack it to the ceiling. This was done by putting the tack through the card and backing it up with a silver dollar and throwing it up to the ceiling.
In 1894 Ladd brought telephone wire and equipment to install a phone system at the Inn. Will Langille installed the equipment and ran the wire.
Will left Oregon to join the Alaskan gold rush. Doug stayed on as guide until 1900 when he joined the U.S. Geological Survey. Sarah’s nephew, Horace Mecklem came to help out after her son’s left. Sarah then hired two European guides until 1903. Mark Weygant went to work for Sarah in 1904 and worked for her for several years. Sarah retired from operating the Inn successfully in 1907 and turned operation over to Horace Mecklem and his wife Olive.
The first automobile driven to Cloud Cap arrived in 1907. It was a one cylinder Cadillac. After the trip Mecklem used a Pierce Arrow as a stage from Hood River to the Inn, but the auto could only go to the China Fill, but it cut down the time from Hood River from 8 hours to 3.
Dorsey Smith assumed the operation of the Inn around 1910(?). Homer Rogers, who ran a lodge in Parkdale, bought the Inn in 1919 from Ladd for $5,000. And a long-term contract from the Forest Service was made.
In 1925 the government was planning the Mount Hood Loop Highway and considering building a newer and bigger inn, similar to Rainier’s Paradise Hotel. They pressured Rodgers to make improvements to the road or lose his permit. Homer ended up selling the Inn to a group of people headed by J.C. Ainsworth. They hired Dorsey Smith to operate the Inn until a new one was built.
The plans for a new Grand Lodge didn’t bring the funds needed by private investors. Enthusiasm for the project was briefly renewed when the Mt. Hood committee came up with plans for a tramway to the summit of Mount Hood. But opposition from the Mazama climbing club and groups concerned with the environmental affects and safety killed that project too.
In 1927 Dorsey Smith turned the Inn’s operation over to Noyes Tyrell, who operated the very successful Tyrell’s Tavern near Bonneville. He ran it until 1932 when it stood empty for about a year.
Boyd French Sr. leased it around 1934 until the war caused it to close its operation. The Mt. Hood Road and Wagon Company sold the Inn in 1942 to the Forest Service for $2,000. Dorsey Smith was the representative in the transaction, ending his long association with Cloud Cap. Boyd Smith used the Inn as a part time residence until after the war. Attempts to operate the Inn failed after that and in 1950 the Forest Service was considering tearing down the Inn, as it had fallen into disrepair.
The Crag Rats, a Hood River based climbing club, after a struggle with the government, secured permission to use the Inn as a clubhouse and a base for their snow surveys. The Crag Rats went to work repairing the old building and
maintain it to this day. In 1974 Cloud Cap Inn and Vista House were placed, by the state, on the list of historic places.
Cloud Cap Inn is accessible by car via a rough dirt road when it’s not closed due to snow. Hiking trails and camping are available in the area as well as majestic views of Mount Hood from the timber line at 6000′, the same elevation as Timberline Lodge on the opposite side of the mountain.
The Crag Rats occupy and maintain historic Cloud Cap Inn, located at 6,000 feet
on the north side of Mt Hood, under a special use permit from the US forest …
