history Archives - Page 5 of 7 - Mount Hood History

The Rhododendron Inn

The Rhododendron Inn: A Lost Landmark of Mount Hood

In the early days of travel on the south side of Mount Hood, weary travelers relied on roadhouses and inns for a bed and a meal as they made their way up the old road to the mountain. The roads were rough, and automobiles were slow. Unlike today’s quick hour-long drive from Portland to Mount Hood, early motorists often spent the better part of a day reaching their destination.

As a result, numerous roadhouses, hotels, and restaurants sprang up along the route to serve visitors. In the town of Rhododendron, one of the most well-known stops was the Rhododendron Inn—a mountain retreat that became an essential piece of the area’s history.

The Founding of the Rhododendron Inn

The Rhododendron Inn was built in 1905 by Henry S. Rowe, who served as Portland’s mayor from 1900 to 1902. He chose 160 acres of land he owned in Rhododendron, believing the location to be perfect for a wilderness retreat. To bring his vision to life, he enlisted Lee Holden, Portland’s fire chief during Rowe’s administration. Holden not only designed the inn but also oversaw its construction.

By 1910, Holden took over ownership of the hotel. That same year, the Rowe post office was established at the inn. However, in 1920, the name was changed to Rhododendron, as required by the U.S. Post Office Department.

Emil and Suzette Franzetti: The Inn’s Golden Years

In 1912, Emil and Suzette Franzetti, experienced European hoteliers, purchased the Rhododendron Inn from Holden. Born in Lugano, Switzerland, Emil Franzetti was not only an innkeeper but also a renowned chef whose career took him across Europe, where he trained in some of the finest hotels. His skills became so exceptional that he even cooked for the King of Italy.

Before coming to Mount Hood, Emil had worked as a head chef in top U.S. establishments, including The Quelle in Portland, famous for its crawfish dishes. However, he and Suzette saw an opportunity to transform the Rhododendron Inn into a first-class mountain resort, offering guests an unforgettable experience in the wilderness.

A Premier Mountain Retreat

Under the Franzettis’ leadership, the Rhododendron Inn flourished, attracting visitors seeking both relaxation and adventure. They expanded and modernized the property, introducing a range of new amenities:

A 60’x100’ dance hall that hosted lively evening entertainment.
A 50’x100’ spring-fed concrete swimming pool, providing summer recreation.
Tennis and croquet courts, catering to sports enthusiasts.
Bridle paths and hiking trails, offering direct access to the surrounding forests.
An annex across the road, plus several cottages and tent houses, giving guests more lodging options.

Emil’s culinary expertise also became a major draw. He personally caught fresh trout for guests, ensuring that each meal was high-quality and memorable. His dedication to hospitality helped solidify the Rhododendron Inn as one of Oregon’s most celebrated retreats.

Tragedy Strikes: The Death of Emil Franzetti

Despite their success, tragedy struck the Franzetti family. On November 17, 1916, Emil Franzetti was driving near the Zigzag Ranger Station when his car skidded off the road and overturned in soft sand. He was trapped beneath the vehicle for hours before a passing farmer discovered him.

Although rescuers rushed him to St. Vincent’s Hospital, Emil never regained consciousness. At just 35 years old, his life was tragically cut short. His funeral was held at St. Mary’s Cathedral in Portland, where members of the Mazamas Winter Skiing Club honored him.

Suzette, however, refused to let Emil’s death end their dream.

Suzette Franzetti’s Determination

For seven years after Emil’s passing, Suzette Franzetti continued running the Rhododendron Inn on her own. Fluent in seven languages, she managed the business with skill and resilience, maintaining the inn’s reputation as a premier mountain retreat.

However, in 1924, she made the decision to move on. She sold the inn and 20 acres to William and Julia Cash. The remaining land was subdivided into lots, many of which became home to Henry Steiner-built log cabins, which still stand today.

The Final Years of the Rhododendron Inn

Following Suzette’s departure, the Rhododendron Inn changed hands multiple times. While the inn continued to operate, each transition marked a new era for the property.

In 1932, a fire destroyed the annex building.
In 1943, new owner Thomas Rex renamed it the Rex Inn.
In 1949, during a harsh winter cold snap, the inn caught fire and burned to the ground. Reports suggest that a blowtorch used to thaw frozen pipes may have accidentally ignited the blaze.

The Lost Landmark: What Remains Today?

The Rhododendron Inn once stood in a location just south of today’s Highway 26, near the pedestrian suspension bridge over the Zigzag River on the west side of town.

Today, all traces of the inn are lost. No structures remain, and nature has reclaimed the land where guests once danced, dined, and explored the wilderness. While the inn itself is gone, its legacy lives on in the history of Mount Hood tourism and the stories of those who passed through its doors.

Remembering the Rhododendron Inn

The Rhododendron Inn was more than just a hotel—it was a symbol of Mount Hood’s early tourism industry. Thanks to the vision of Henry S. Rowe, the craftsmanship of Lee Holden, and the dedication of Emil and Suzette Franzetti, it became a beloved destination for travelers seeking both adventure and luxury in the mountains.

Although time has erased the Rhododendron Inn, its story remains an important chapter in Oregon’s history.

Discover More Mount Hood History

If you love learning about Oregon’s past, check out more stories at MountHoodHistory.com.

Do you have memories or stories about the Rhododendron Inn? Share them in the comments below!

Norma’s Bean Pot Wemme Oregon

A familiar restaurant remembered on the way to and from Mount Hood was Norma’s Bean Pot at Wemme, Hwy 26, circa 1961 – 1974.

Operated by Norma Fay Waldron-McKean (1907 – 1999).

Contributed by Peter Bellant.

Billy’s Milk Shed – Welch’s Ranch Tokens

Billy’s Milk Shed and his Welch’s Ranch Tokens.

In the day and age of quick trips to the store for a gallon of milk as well as refrigeration to preserve the milk we sometimes forget that our ancestors didn’t have those conveniences.

Billy Welch was a resort proprietor. He ran the Welch’s Ranch in a way as to include most supplies that the visitors, hotel guests, cabin dwellers as well as campers might need during their stay. He had a dance hall, restaurant, post office, was a notary public and operated a store, much like convenience stores of today, that had everything from candy for the kids to food for meals as well as other items of necessity.

In its early stages Billy’s store had no refrigeration. In lieu of coolers or or ice chests he had a cold shed down at the Salmon River where he had diverted the cold water from the river through the shed. It kept the shed chilled and things such as jars of milk could be preserved by sitting in the cold water bath.

To purchase your milk you would buy aluminum tokens at the store and then, as you needed milk, you would go to the cold shed and drop your token in the can and take your jar of cold milk. Billy had two denominations. One pint and one quart. On one side it read WELCH’S RANCH. On the other it read GOOD FOR 1 PINT or GOOD FOR 1 QUART.

Today these Welch’s Ranch Tokens are quite scarce.

A View from The Roof of Cloud Cap Inn

A View from The Roof of Cloud Cap Inn – Circa 1900.

Cloud Cap Inn was built in 1889 and opened August 6th of the same year. It was built by William Ladd, a Portland banker and C.E.S. Wood a Portland attorney. It was Woods wife, Nannie, who named the hotel.

Prior to building the Inn they bought the road and created the Mt. Hood Stage Co. The road needed improvements before building could begin. Chinese laborers were employed in the project. A stretch of road referred to as “China Fill” was a 22-percent grade and was a challenge to the early automobiles attempting the trip. The original road didn’t follow today’s road. As you drive up to the Inn you can still see the old road intersect the new occasionally. It ran along the ridge between Evans Creek and Crystal Springs Creek.

The same architectural firm that designed Cloud Cap Inn designed the Forestry Building for the Lewis and Clark Exposition in Portland in 1905. All of the logs came from around the building site. Cables were used to hold the building down during high winds. Wind did end up blowing down one of the original chimneys in the early 1900’s. Water was supplied to the Inn from Tilly Jane Creek, 1200 feet away.

Business was slow in the beginning. The Inn closed down in 1890 and Ladd and Wood turned over operation of the Inn to James Langille’s wife, Sarah, nick named Tansana, in 1891. Sarah ran Cloud Cap at a much simpler level and was able to operate at a profit. Her two son’s Will and Doug worked at the Inn as mountain guides.

A tradition was started where when a person made a summit ascent they were allowed to take their personal business card and thumbtack it to the ceiling. This was done by putting the tack through the card and backing it up with a silver dollar and throwing it up to the ceiling.

In 1894 Ladd brought telephone wire and equipment to install a phone system at the Inn. Will Langille installed the equipment and ran the wire.

Will left Oregon to join the Alaskan gold rush. Doug stayed on as guide until 1900 when he joined the U.S. Geological Survey. Sarah’s nephew, Horace Mecklem came to help out after her son’s left. Sarah then hired two European guides until 1903. Mark Weygant went to work for Sarah in 1904 and worked for her for several years. Sarah retired from operating the Inn successfully in 1907 and turned operation over to Horace Mecklem and his wife Olive.

The first automobile driven to Cloud Cap arrived in 1907. It was a one cylinder Cadillac. After the trip Mecklem used a Pierce Arrow as a stage from Hood River to the Inn, but the auto could only go to the China Fill, but it cut down the time from Hood River from 8 hours to 3.

Dorsey Smith assumed the operation of the Inn around 1910(?). Homer Rogers, who ran a lodge in Parkdale, bought the Inn in 1919 from Ladd for $5,000. And a long-term contract from the Forest Service was made.

In 1925 the government was planning the Mount Hood Loop Highway and considering building a newer and bigger inn, similar to Rainier’s Paradise Hotel. They pressured Rodgers to make improvements to the road or lose his permit. Homer ended up selling the Inn to a group of people headed by J.C. Ainsworth. They hired Dorsey Smith to operate the Inn until a new one was built.

The plans for a new Grand Lodge didn’t bring the funds needed by private investors. Enthusiasm for the project was briefly renewed when the Mt. Hood committee came up with plans for a tramway to the summit of Mount Hood. But opposition from the Mazama climbing club and groups concerned with the environmental affects and safety killed that project too.

In 1927 Dorsey Smith turned the Inn’s operation over to Noyes Tyrell, who operated the very successful Tyrell’s Tavern near Bonneville. He ran it until 1932 when it stood empty for about a year.

Boyd French Sr. leased it around 1934 until the war caused it to close its operation. The Mt. Hood Road and Wagon Company sold the Inn in 1942 to the Forest Service for $2,000. Dorsey Smith was the representative in the transaction, ending his long association with Cloud Cap. Boyd Smith used the Inn as a part time residence until after the war. Attempts to operate the Inn failed after that and in 1950 the Forest Service was considering tearing down the Inn, as it had fallen into disrepair.

The Crag Rats, a Hood River based climbing club, after a struggle with the government, secured permission to use the Inn as a clubhouse and a base for their snow surveys. The Crag Rats went to work repairing the old building and

maintain it to this day. In 1974 Cloud Cap Inn and Vista House were placed, by the state, on the list of historic places.

Cloud Cap Inn is accessible by car via a rough dirt road when it’s not closed due to snow. Hiking trails and camping are available in the area as well as majestic views of Mount Hood from the timber line at 6000′, the same elevation as Timberline Lodge on the opposite side of the mountain.

Cloud Cap – CragRats

The Crag Rats occupy and maintain historic Cloud Cap Inn, located at 6,000 feet on the north side of Mt Hood, under a special use permit from the US forest …

Welches Ranch, Welches Oregon

Here’s a great early view of the old Welches Ranch at Welches Oregon.

This view is after Sam had gone. You can see the store, post office, the dance hall and the white canvas tourist tents lined up along the road to the left of the Welch home. Billy’s cow pasture, which is now the golf course at the resort, is at the left side while his orchard can be seen on the right side of the photo.

When this photo was taken there was only a sign out at the Barlow Road, where the modern shopping center is presently located, directing people to turn south and drive to Welches Ranch one mile away.

Snowplow on Mt Hood Loop Highway

Snowplow on Mt Hood Loop Highway circa 1950-ish. The winters of 1949-1951 were big snow season’s on Mount Hood.

This scene is most likely on the road to Timberline Lodge.

Let’s Preserve the Old Mt. Hood Highway as a Trail, and Build 2 …

Aug 18, 2015 … Parts of the long-abandoned Mt. Hood Loop Highway near Government Camp in Oregon should be preserved for both recreational and historic …

To Mount Hood – Through Oregon’s Lolo Pass Road

Ford Times August 1958 – To Mount Hood Through Oregon’s Lolo Pass

Here’s a great story from 1958 about driving through Oregon’s Lolo Pass Road back when it first opened. It tells about how, after it was determined that the area was not a part of the Bull Run Lake watershed, the road was built in 1955 opened to the public from Spring until Fall for fantastic views of Mount Hood’s west side.

Lolo Pass, Mt Hood Oregon – AllTrips

Rugged, scenic Lolo Pass crosses visitors over Oregon’s Cascade Mountain Range near breathtaking Mt. Hood on a route once traversed by Oregon Trail …

Oneonta Bluff and Tunnel

Oneonta Bluff prior to The Construction of the Historic Columbia River Highway

Here’s a rare view of Oneonta Bluff and the old railway bed prior to the construction of the Historic Columbia River Highway.

Once construction of the road took place the construction of the tunnel allowed automobile passage through the basalt promontory. In time increased traffic and larger cars and trucks necessitated the relocation of the railroad and the highway to allow the cars to bypass the tunnel altogether. The tunnel was filled in 1948.

Covered up and virtually forgotten, many people would stand on the old bridge that seemed to direct traffic directly into a solid rock wall.

In 2009, as a part of the restoration of the remaining segments of the old road, the tunnel was excavated and restored, including the wooden cribbing and rock facades.

Today the old tunnel is a pedestrian passage and witness to the old Columbia River’s history.

The Ivy Bear at Alder Creek

The Rise, Fall, and Revival of the Ivy Bear at Alder Creek: A Highway 26 Landmark

For decades, travelers along U.S. Highway 26 in Oregon have been greeted by a unique roadside landmark: the towering Ivy Bear at Alder Creek. Covered in thick vines and steeped in local lore, this massive figure has become a beloved symbol of the Mount Hood area. Built as a tribute to a pet bear, it eventually collapsed, but thanks to a dedicated community, it rose again.

The Man Behind the Ivy Bear at Alder Creek

The story of the Ivy Bear begins with Gerald Wear, a deaf craftsman, dog trainer, and builder who lived in Alder Creek. Wear was widely known for his ingenuity and deep love for animals. Alongside training German Shepherds, he also cared for a bear that lived in a roadside cage. As travelers passed along the two-lane highway, many stopped to watch the bear, which quickly became an unofficial mascot.

Eventually, the bear passed away. According to local accounts, it died after consuming too many candy bars, soda pop, and bottle caps handed out by curious onlookers. Heartbroken, Wear felt compelled to honor the animal. He decided to create a much larger tribute: a towering ivy-covered bear that would stand beside the road for all to see.

Building the Largest Ivy Structure in the World

In 1947, Wear began construction on what would become the Ivy Bear at Alder Creek. He built a wooden frame, wrapped it in chicken wire, and carefully planted ivy around the structure. Over the course of more than a year, the vines filled in, eventually covering the entire bear.

At the time, the figure was believed to be the largest ivy-covered structure in the world. Motorists quickly became accustomed to the sight of the massive bear keeping watch near the highway. To make the figure even more lifelike, Wear added a rear door and scaffolding inside that led up to the bear’s head. At night, he would climb inside and light its eyes with candles. Later, he upgraded them with old Volkswagen taillights.

The Ivy Bear showing the original eye which were replaced by Volkswagen taillights.

A Growing Landmark Along Highway 26

Over time, the Ivy Bear at Alder Creek became even more popular. In fact, it eventually became better known than the businesses located on the property. Mount Hood skiers adopted a tradition of saluting the bear for good luck, and children often lifted their feet as they passed by.

Meanwhile, Wear continued working on creative projects in Alder Creek. In addition to the bear, he built homes and decorative water wheels. Although Wear passed away in 1972, his most famous creation remained standing—a lasting testament to his creativity and love for the area.

The Fall of the Ivy Bear in June 1984

After nearly 40 years of standing tall, the Ivy Bear collapsed on June 18, 1984. A gentle breeze that evening was all it took to bring down the aging wooden structure. The bear toppled forward and landed on its tin snout.

Upon closer inspection, the cause became clear: the wooden beams at the base had rotted through. Without a strong foundation, the structure simply gave way. Although exterior damage was minimal, the bear could no longer stand upright.

The loss resonated with the community. Travelers slowed down, searching for the familiar landmark. Even the Portland Chamber of Commerce reached out to the property’s owners, eager to help restore the iconic roadside figure.

A Community Comes Together

Recognizing the Ivy Bear’s cultural value, local residents and organizations launched a campaign to bring it back. In 1987, Ron Rhoades, owner of the Ivy Bear Restaurant, partnered with Michael P. Jones of the Cascade Geographic Society and the Friends of the Ivy Bear to start a fundraiser.

By 1990, their efforts paid off. The community raised enough money to rebuild the Ivy Bear—this time using a steel frame designed to withstand time and weather. Thanks to their perseverance, the Ivy Bear stood once again.

The Ivy Bear Returns to Alder Creek

The bear’s revival brought renewed energy to the Mount Hood area. Locals and travelers alike celebrated the return of the iconic figure. Once more, the Ivy Bear stood proudly along Highway 26, welcoming visitors and honoring its unique history.

Today, the Ivy Bear remains a bit overgrown but continues to charm passersby. It stands not only as a tribute to Gerald Wear’s craftsmanship and compassion but also as a symbol of community pride. Next time you drive through Alder Creek, don’t forget to salute the bear—just like generations before you.

Tag: history