Early Hospitality Along the Columbia River Highway
When the Columbia River Highway began opening through the Columbia River Gorge in the early 1910s, it quickly became one of the most celebrated scenic drives in the United States. The new highway allowed Portland residents and visitors to travel by automobile to waterfalls, viewpoints, and small communities scattered along the Gorge. But early motorists needed places to stop along the way. Inns, roadhouses, and small resorts began appearing beside the highway to serve these travelers. Among the most determined of the early operators was Mrs. M. E. Henderson, whose ventures at Chanticleer Inn, Falls , and Crown Point Chalet helped define the early experience of touring the Columbia River Highway.
An Early Roadhouse Above the Columbia River
Before Vista House crowned Crown Point, another establishment welcomed automobile tourists to one of the most dramatic viewpoints in the Columbia River Gorge. It was called the Crown Point Chalet. At the center of its story was Mrs. M. E. Henderson.
In the early 1910s, as construction of the Columbia River Highway began carving its way through the Gorge, a new kind of opportunity emerged. The age of railroad tourism was giving way to the automobile. Motorists needed places to eat, rest, and enjoy the scenery. Margaret E. “Bidy” Henderson saw that opportunity.
Chanticleer Inn
Henderson first became known in the Gorge through her association with the Chanticleer Inn at Chanticleer Point near Corbett.
The inn had been built in 1912 by A. R. Morgan on a promontory overlooking the Columbia River Gorge. The sweeping view downriver quickly made it a fashionable destination for Portland visitors.
Under Henderson’s management the inn became known for its hospitality and excellent meals. Travelers exploring the Gorge often stopped there to rest and enjoy the scenery.
But Henderson soon decided to establish a place of her own.
The Falls Chalet at Latourell
Leaving Chanticleer around 1914, Henderson opened a new venture in the small community of Latourell overlooking Latourell Falls. She named it the Falls Chalet.
Like Crown Point, Latourell Falls was a natural stopping place for travelers. The dramatic columnar basalt cliffs and the tall waterfall made it one of the scenic highlights of the developing highway.
The Falls Chalet enjoyed early success, serving motorists exploring the Gorge. But the venture was short-lived. Not long after opening, the building was destroyed by fire.
Fire was an ever-present risk for the wooden roadhouses that lined the early highways.
Once again, Henderson was forced to regroup.
The Crown Point Chalet
In May of 1915 Henderson opened what would become her most successful enterprise — the Crown Point Chalet.
Located near Crown Point, high above the Columbia River, the Chalet occupied a commanding site overlooking the Gorge. This was three years before Vista House was constructed in 1918.
Motorists traveling the newly opened sections of the Columbia River Highway naturally stopped at Crown Point to admire the sweeping panorama of the river far below. Many continued on to Henderson’s establishment for meals and hospitality.
For travelers exploring the Gorge by automobile, the Crown Point Chalet quickly became one of the premier roadhouses along the route.
The End of an Era
For more than a decade Henderson operated the Crown Point Chalet, welcoming the growing stream of motorists traveling one of America’s first great scenic highways.
By 1927, however, her health had begun to fail and she sold the Chalet.
She moved to Portland and opened a small dining room on Alder Street. The coming of the Great Depression proved difficult for many small businesses, and hers was no exception.
Her health continued to decline, and in April of 1930 Margaret E. Henderson passed away at the age of 58.
Today little physical evidence remains of her enterprises. Vista House dominates Crown Point. Visitors to Latourell Falls seldom realize that a chalet once stood nearby. The Chanticleer Inn survives only in photographs and memory.
Yet Mrs. Henderson played an important role in the early hospitality of the Columbia River Highway. In the formative years of automobile tourism in the Gorge, she helped shape the experience travelers found along the road.
Her story is one small but meaningful chapter in the larger history of the Columbia River Highway — and in the story of how the Columbia River Gorge became a destination.
The old lodge fell into disrepair and was demolished sometime in the early 1950’s.
Very interesting article. It’s too bad that things didn’t go well for mrs. Henderson and she couldn’t continue this wonderful inn and that she died so young.
Very interesting !
Hi, I am the great Granddaughter of Mrs. ME Henderson. I wanted to mention the order of her Roadhouses in your article was not accurate – see the below timeline for Mrs. Henderson. If I miss-read your article I apologize in advance.
1912 – 1914 – Chanticleer Inn
1914 – 1915 – Falls Inn at Latourell Falls
1915 – 1927 – Crown Point Chalet
Hi Linda. Yes. You’re right. The way that I wrote it didn’t make that clear. I am re-writing her story and will post it up soon. Thank you so much for reaching out.